Wednesday, February 24, 2016

Fika Swedish Cafe & Bistro @ OneKM Mall

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If you spot a Swede having his afternoon tea, he is doing what they called Fika. A cup of coffee, together with some pastries or sandwiches, it is an activity that Swedes, and many of us, resonates with. I chanced upon the concept of fika when researching for my Scandinavian trip last year, and coming to Fika Swedish Cafe & Bistro at OneKM Mall gave me the chance to try food that I have missed out during my short vacation in Sweden.

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A flagstone footpath led us into the porch of Fika. Behind the white painted walls I could see the hosts busy preparing food for their guests. What's eye-catching is the Falu red wall, a colour unique to Sweden. This is the centralised work station that churns out all the cakes and pastries that you will taste in all of Fika's outlets. This is a traditional Swedish setting, where guests are host at the porch. There are two other Fika outlets in Singapore with their respective theme - at Arab Street, you will find yourself dining inside their Swedish house, while at Millenia Walk, contemporary is the mood.

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Rosehip Soup - (Nyponsoppa) 3.5/5

It was a really hot day, hence I opted for a cold Rosehip Soup - (Nyponsoppa) for a refreshing start. It is sweet with a hint of sourness, almost like a hawthorn drink, but with a viscosity.

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Red Beet Salad 2.5/5

I had 2 salads - Red Beet Salad - Rödbetssallad ($7.90) and Långedrag ($18.90). Red beet is more like a side dish, similar to a coleslaw but made with pickled beets and apple. The beets are pickled, which makes it really appetising, and despite its strong flavour, it blends really well with the sweetness of the apple. I could have wiped the bowl clean, really, should it have not been drown by the mayonnaise.

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Långedrag 3.5/5

Långedrag is your typical salad, but topped with Swedish fresh-water shrimps. Despite their miniscule physic, each of them may surprise you with its concentrated sweet, savoury taste. Hence, just a handful of it is enough to dress the entire plate of greens.

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Toast Skagen 3.8/5

Swedish fresh-water shrimps goes well not just with salads, but great on toasts too. When mixed with mayonnaise and dills, it forms a creamy, savoury topping with a crunch. A dash of lemon will balance the taste with tang and acidity. The first time I had this was at Smor at One Raffles Place, which made me go searching for it all the time during my trip in Scandinavia. It is not typically offered elsewhere in other places, perhaps due to the high cost of the imported ingredients. Although I find the price rather steep for sandwiches, but go for Toast Skagen ($21.90) if you want to enjoy the beauty of these tiny shrimps.

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Swedish Meatballs 4.2/5

For mains, I'm sure you are quite familiar with Swedish Meatballs - Köttbullar med persiljepotatis och lingonsylt ($19.90), a dish imprinted in many of our mind to be primarily what Swedish cuisine is about, after Ikea at Queensway first introduced it to us. However, nothing can compared to freshly made meatballs, especially when they are fat and juicy, well peppered, spiced and salted. A traditional brown sauce for meatballs consists beef broth and sour cream, hence you get that beefiness spiked with a bit of tang. Piquant, but not too creamy nor heavy, which complements the flavour of the meatballs well. Accessorised with the tart Swedish's staple lingonberry jam, every bite of the meatball is packed with an array of flavours, and most importantly, without the gaminess.

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Herb-crusted Salmon 3.5/5

Salmon, apart from herring, is common in Nordic cuisine, smoked salmon especially. Over here at Fika, they have a Swedish inspired Herb-crusted Salmon - Kryddbakad lax med glaserade rödbetor och citronsmörsås ($26.50). Like the meatballs, the salmon was gracefully plated atop potato mash, with a layer of beautiful herb crust. The salmon was tender and flaky, however, the much anticipated herb crust falls flat with its flavorless profile. A very wholesome and nutritious dish nonetheless, given its portion and the choice of side dishes.

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Creamy Pasta 3/5

More conventional options are available, such as pasta. We tried their recommended Creamy Pasta - Krämig pasta ($21.90). Apart from turkey ham, there are leek and mushrooms, hence I considered it as a healthier option of Carbonara. I would appreciate if there is more doses of leek as the pasta seems to be overwhelmed with ham.

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Semla 2.5/5

With everything baked in house, we couldn't leave without trying the dessert, could we? Although we were really filled. We were in time for their once-a-year dessert - Semla ($4.90). After trying, indeed, it is as described - doughy buns of sin. Each Semla is a cocoon of a thick and oozy almond paste, that comforts the souls of many Swedes residing in Singapore. I can imagine having it in front of a fireplace, where I'm warmly hugged by a comforter. However, over here, I just couldn't agree with its level of sweetness.

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Swedish Pancakes 3/5

We also had their Swedish Pancakes - Pannkakor med bär, chokladsås och vispad grädde  ($12.90 Ice-cream top-up: Vanilla $1.50). I learnt that Swedish Pancakes are thicker and eggier than French Crepes, rather than airy and fluffy. Given such a texture, I believe their savoury crepes will be better choice. We saw that the very traditional Princess Cake is on the menu too, but it wasn't ready for us that day. Next time perhaps.

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Lingonberry Milkshake 3.5/5

If you just want to enjoy the ambience, do drop by for their unique selection of drinks. Cold, rich and creamy, their Lingonberry Milkshake will be worth your calories.

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Dining here at Fika has been a very enjoyable experience. Despite it being inside a mall, I felt like I have been sheltered away from the hustle and bustle of the weekend crowd. If you are curious about Swedish cuisine, this is perhaps the most accessible place that you can get.

Photograph and written by Si An. A girl who is allured by travelling, loves the feel of freedom, smell of the rain and the aroma of fine coffee and food.


Fika Swedish Cafe & Bistro
OneKM Mall
11 Tanjong Katong Road
Singapore 436950
Tel: +65 67022456
Facebook
Website
Nearest MRT: Paya Lebar (CC Line, EW Line)

Opening Hours:
Sun-Thu: 11am - 10pm
Fri-Sat: 11am - 11pm

Direction: 
1) Alight at Paya Lebar MRT station. Take Exit A. Turn right and walk to Singapore Post Centre. At the Singapore Post Centre, turn right again and continue straight down the road. Walk to destination. Journey time about 8 minutes. [Map]

Tuesday, February 23, 2016

BoCHINche @ Martin Road

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Vuelvo al Sur,
como se vuelve siempre al amor...
I am returning to the South,
Like how love always returns…
-- ‘Vuelvo al Sur’, Astor Piazzolla (1921 - 1992)

Argentina has always been seen as a land of riches. The first Europeans to arrive at the vast estuary of the Rio de la Plata dreamed of mountains of silver; the name ‘Argentina’ derives from the Latin for silver, argentum. And while the silver turned out to be elsewhere (Bolivia, mostly), the vast country has riches all of its own, many of them edible.

And Bochinche isn’t shy about its intention, which is to bring these pleasures to Singapore. The presence of this piece of the south in Singapore is the result, apparently, of a chance encounter in London involving Diego Jacquet, the chef who helms Zoilo there. Besides his attitude to sourcing the raw materials, he has also sent a longtime colleague, Fabrice Mergalet, to oversee the Singaporean operation. This Fabrice does in a manner that’s calm, almost languid, but still precise and prompt; voices are low, movements are measured, yet the dishes come out as and when they should.

It’s easy to see they’re proud of what they sell - just past the entrance is the grocery section, with everything from cocoa to dulce de leche (think caramelised condensed milk) and, of course, a wine rack full of Malbec (Argentina’s most renowned grape variety). This arrangement is logical as well as physical - the intimately lit dining space follows from these raw materials.

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Seabass Ceviche 3.8/5

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Scallop Tiradito 4/5

Seated facing the open kitchen, though, the most prominent stimuli both come from cattle - the sight of flames licking around cuts of beef on the grill, and the smell of grilled cheese. But before that we start lightly with seafood dishes. In Seabass Ceviche, the chunks of fish are milky-white and supple with a tongue-pinching marinade; it’s easy to see why the liquid is purported to cure hangovers.

Scallops, on the other hand, come in a rather subtler juice, and are served without marination so their marine, slightly muddy taste is still discernible. Both dishes balance their sharp elements differently - ceviche with a sweet lemon curd, the tiradito with a nest of cassava mealy chips.

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Provoleta, Honey, Oregano 4.5/5

It was a good thing this was on the tasting menu - it would be exceedingly cruel to drive us up the wall with the scent of bubbling, scorching cheese and then not let us try some. Provoleta is an Argentine derivative of provolone, grilled and used as a starter; you can imagine the dishes that make the main meal, if the starter is as spirited and intense as this. The sharp aroma translates to a lactic, almost chalky flavour, and the cheese itself is gooey, though not stretchy. Even after it has cooled it retains bounce. And the combination of honey and oregano used to mellow it is a revelation, the two melding into each other to make something almost like wine and supplemented with the krok of peanuts.

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Crab Croquetas 3.5/5

The croquetas have an equally krokking shell, which give way to a filling of humitas - boiled corn mash, smooth with an understated flavour - that is mixed with substantial amounts of crab, the little threads of meat sweet and a little peppery.

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Watermelon Salad 3.8/5

With the Watermelon Salad chunks of watermelon, given a brief turn on the large grill, are dressed with a variety of things that play off them in different ways. Sundried tomato adds a heavy, savoury note, mozzarella a balmier, smoother contrast. And the grilling really works; there is no trace of smoke on the watermelon, but it has become a little drier and a lot sweeter, its juices concentrated.

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Bife Angosto (sirloin) 4.2/5

But finally we’ve finished the winding path that leads to the steak, and I’m happy to say that the reward is ample. This, the Sirloin, is not for people who enjoy beautifully patterned beef with a delicate taste and melting texture. Rather it embodies the Argentine attitude to meat. It comes from a cow that has been wandering the vast pampas, eating grass. Then it is aged, cut, and grilled with precision, so the outside is singed and rendered but the centre is still ruby-red. The meat is firm, still oozing with juices, its flavour deep and robust. Chimichurri with plenty of oregano is a lively, almost smoky sort of herbal sauce to lift it with.

With the steak comes chips of the British sort, proper cricket bats of potatoes that are first blanched, then confited and finally put in the boiling oil. Yet, while substantial, they don’t seem as crackly as they could be with all that effort. Perhaps it is an admirable decision to stick with vegetable oil in the cooking, but by the time we get to the chips it is a little late to attract non-carnivores; they might have just stuck to their guns and used goose fat.

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Milk Cake 4/5

We tried two desserts, including a wobbly flan with dulce de leche, but my personal preference is the Milk Cake. It is just what it says - sponge cake that has been saturated with sweet milk, an unctuous, oozing mess, served alongside passionfruit sorbet. They are made for each other in the sense that either alone is too much - one is piercingly sour, the other like a clod of sugar. But together they meld into a bite with everything in it.

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And maybe ‘everything in it’ can summarise this meal; the range of dishes we have, and in the menu, is truly wide. But at no point do they lose the thread, always waving the Argentine flag. In the sourcing and quality of the produce, Bochinche wins half the battle, and the other half comes from a canny combination of playing it straight and adding little flourishes to the ensembles - grilling the watermelon, and combining provoleta with honey (apparently also a signature at Zoilo). Leaving the restaurant into quiet River Valley, I look up the name of the restaurant; turns out it’s a Latin American Spanish word meaning ‘gossip, chatter’. Fair enough. There’s plenty here to chatter about.

Guest Writer: Wilson’s perfect day consists of a good meal and a laptop, on a table, next to a window, overlooking the sea, in a rainstorm. You can see more of his reviews at his blog, Dear Babette


[MOVED]
BoCHINche
22 Martin Road
#02-01
Singapore 239058
Tel: +65 62354990
Facebook
Website
Nearest MRT: Chinatown (DT Line, NE Line), Tiong Bahru (EW Line)

Opening Hours:
Tue - Thu: 5.30pm - midnight
Fri: 5.30pm - 1am
Sat: 11am - 4.30pm, 5.30pm - 1am
Sun: 11am - 4.30pm, 5.30pm - midnight
(Closed on Mon)

Direction: 
1) Alight at Chinatown MRT station. Take Exit C. Walk to bus stop opposite Subordinate Court (Stop ID 06171) along Upper Cross Street. Take bus number 51 or 186. Alight 2 stops later. Cross the overhead bridge. Cross the river. Walk down Rodyk Street. Walk to destination. Journey time about 18 minutes. [Map]

2) Alight at Tiong Bahru MRT station. Take Exit B. Walk to bus stop at Tiong Bahru Plaza (Stop ID 10169). Take bus number 123. Alight 5 stops later. Cross the river. Walk down Rodyk Street. Walk to destination. Journey time about 20 minutes.[Map]