This October, Po Restaurant at The Warehouse Hotel unveils its brand-new menu, celebrating Singapore's rich Nanyang heritage and culinary traditions. Moving away from its previous mod-sin concept, the new direction is led by Head Chef Desmond Yong, who brings nearly two decades of experience, including his tenure as Head Chef at Rempapa, and a background spanning hawker stalls to refined kitchens. Together with his team, he has crafted a diverse yet concise menu showcasing dishes from Chinese, Malay, Indian, Eurasian, and Peranakan traditions. Treasured family recipes, either his own or generously shared by others, are reinterpreted with finesse.
Samsui Chicken 5/5
For starters, the Samsui Chicken was a pure delight. Served chilled, the poached organic chicken was tender, with slightly gelatinous skin. Complementing it was a gingery, garlicky dressing that beautifully whetted the appetite.
Singgang Serai 4.5/5
Another outstanding starter was the Singgang Serai ($24), inspired by a Eurasian fish curry. The mackerel stew, rich with turmeric rempah and coconut milk, was encased in a toasted rice shell and topped with a delicate tomato jelly. The jelly lent a fruity sweetness and gentle tartness that balanced the umami-packed stew, while the rice shell, reminiscent of a Japanese monaka, added mild sweetness and textural crunch to each bite.
Ikan Kerabu 4/5
The Ikan Kerabu ($28) reimagines the classic Peranakan kerabu with yellowtail cured in ginger flower and plum dressing, topped with a tangy herb salad, sakura shrimp, and coconut. While the dish was delicious, the use of herbs and coconut could be less restrained to better accentuate its kerabu character.
Kambing Masak Lemak Chilli 5/5
The Kambing Masak Lemak Chilli ($28) was scrumptious, featuring ultra-tender, slow-braised lamb in a rich, aromatic spiced curry. The meat had a lovely char that deepened its flavour, and the fluffy steamed rice vermicelli served as the perfect accompaniment to the heady curry.
Housemade Beancurd with Crabmeat 3/5
Among the main dishes, the Housemade Beancurd with Crabmeat ($32) featured silky steamed egg beancurd topped with plump crabmeat in superior sauce. While enjoyable, it leaned more toward an elevated Japanese chawanmushi than a Chinese-style dish, perhaps because of the addition of ikura.
Sotong Masak Hitam 4.5/5
The Sotong Masak Hitam ($30) showcased a Peranakan classic of squid cooked in its own ink. Stir-fried with rempah and reduced to a thick, glossy sauce, it was richly spiced with just a hint of heat. The squid roe, left intact, lent additional depth and creaminess, making each bite satisfying and full-bodied. The tentacles, coated in a blend of rice and corn flour, were a brilliant touch, adding crisp texture to this traditional dish.
Itek Sioh 5/5
The Itek Sioh ($30) was prepared confit-style, simmered in tamarind, coriander seed, and dark soy sauce. It was easily one of the better duck leg confits I've had in a while, with meat that was perfectly tender and well-balanced in flavour.
Babi Tohay 3/5
The Babi Tohay ($32) featured Iberico pork slowly braised in Po's house-made fermented krill paste and red rice paste. While the gravy was delectable, I found some of the meat slightly dry.
Lobster Mee 4.5/5
The Lobster Mee ($58) offered a luxurious take on KL Hokkien Mee, brimming with pork lard and premium seafood. Udon noodles were used instead of the typical yellow noodles. While purists may miss the alkaline bite of the original, I appreciated the chewiness of the udon, which made the dish feel lighter against the dark, flavoursome soy gravy.
Brinjal Fry 2/5
For vegetables, the Brinjal Fry ($24) featured South Indian-style pan-grilled eggplant, drizzled with honey and topped with spiced puffed rice and feta. While it aimed for an Indian-inspired profile, the flavours didn't quite come together, and the brinjal itself was slightly tough and watery. I was reminded of a stir-fried brinjal dish I had previously had over here. It was more rustic in presentation but homely and delicious in flavour.
Nasi Telang 4.5/5
There's always room for rice, and the Nasi Telang ($12) was a fragrant pleasure, glossy with ghee and aromatic with herbs.
Kueh Tingkat 3/5
Yuzu Cheng Tng 3.5/5
For desserts, we had the Kueh Tingkat ($22), featuring three freshly made varieties of kueh, and the Yuzu Cheng Tng ($18). The kuehs were pleasant, though the kueh kosui was a touch too sweet and lacked the desired softness. The Cheng Tng was light and refreshing, elevated by a scoop of yuzu sorbet.
Po's refreshed menu reflects Singapore's diverse culinary roots with heart and intent. Many dishes shine with thoughtful execution, though a few have lost a touch of their traditional soul in the process of refinement. Still, kudos to Chef Desmond Yong and his team for steering Po in a bold new direction amid today's challenging F&B landscape.
Photos and words by Si An. A homebody who is allured by travelling, loves the feel of freedom, the smell of the rain and the aroma of fine coffee and food.
Po Restaurant
The Warehouse Hotel
320 Havelock Road
Singapore 169628
Tel: +65 6828 0007
Website
Nearest MRT: Havelock (TE Line)
Opening Hours:
Daily: 7 - 1030am, 12pm - 3pm, 6pm - 1030pm
Direction:
1) Alight at Havelock MRT station. Take Exit 4. Turn left and walk down Havelock Road. Walk to destination. Journey time about 8 minutes. [Map]
