Labyrinth @ Esplanade Mall - Celebrating 10 Years of Singapore’s Culinary Heritage with a Refreshed Focus and Renewed Impetus

Marking its 10th anniversary, Labyrinth by Chef Han Li Guang continues to redefine Singaporean cuisine. Since opening in 2014, Labyrinth has become synonymous with heritage preservation, culinary creativity, and local ingredients, evolving into a highly-regarded fine dining experience. This October 2024, Chef Han and his team have brought a fresh perspective, exploring Singapore's food heritage through a new, refined lens. The 13-course dinner menu ($298++) is a tribute to Singapore's culinary traditions, reimagined with precision and artistry.

Bak Kut Teh Consomme 4.5/5

Our meal opened with the Bak Kut Teh Consommé. This starter was a delicate yet flavourful dashi broth, capturing the essence of traditional Bak Kut Teh without overpowering the palate. Serving this as a first course was a thoughtful nod to Singaporean dining culture, where a light soup often begins the meal to whet the appetite. It was an impressive, nuanced start.

Ramly Burger 4.2/5

The Ramly Burger was a playful miniature inspired by the iconic Ramly burger from Pasar Malams (local night markets). Labyrinth's version features an aburi hand-chopped beef flank patty wrapped in an eggy parcel, with tomato meringue buns topped with sesame seeds. Topped with Labyrinth's "Ramly sauce" and mustard cress, this bite-sized snack delivered nostalgia and innovation in one.

Oyster Bao 4.8/5

My favourite snack, the Oyster Bao, was Labyrinth's take on the disappearing Fuzhou Haobing street snack. This bao used a David Herve oyster no.4 and a delicate espuma batter to create a beignet-like texture. The flavours were layered and precise, with a light, airy crust surrounding the oyster — a beautifully elevated version of a rare street food.

Hainanese Curry Puff 4/5

Dubbed the Old Han Kee, Labyrinth's Hainanese Curry Puff pays homage to Singapore's iconic curry puff brand, Old Chang Kee. It is filled with oyster mushrooms, sweet corn, sweet potato, and braised pork belly and served with garlic aioli for extra richness. It is a satisfying and comforting bite.

Satay Club 4.2/5

Named after Singapore's historic Satay Club, this course featured two skewers — a Pork Satay and a Chicken Tsukune. The pork skewers, with loin and jowl, offered contrasting textures, reminiscent of Hainanese satay, while the tsukune encased a quail egg and was inspired by Japanese tsukune and Scotch egg. Paired with Filipino kare-kare peanut sauce, the skewers captured the essence of Southeast Asia's diverse satay styles.

RotiBoy 4.2/5

Labyrinth's RotiBoy transported me back to childhood with its coffee-flavoured craquelin atop a soft brioche filled with Bordier seaweed butter. The nostalgic flavours of Singapore's popular coffee bun were beautifully recreated, with subtle sweetness and a light coffee aroma.

Wartime Rojak 4.5/5

Inspired by an old recipe from the 1942-1950 cookbook "Wartime Kitchen," the Wartime Rojak reimagines a British-influenced Asian salad. Beetroot was prepared as a rosette and sorbet, accompanied by cucumber and lettuce granite, pineapple, and herbs like shiso. It was a refreshing, complex dish with sweet, savoury, and acidic notes, embodying the essence of rojak in a contemporary way. Notably, this dish replaced Labyrinth's iconic Chilli Crab, reflecting the restaurant's commitment to continual evolution.

Fish Maw Char Kway Teow 4.5/5

Labyrinth introduced Char Kway Teow with a twist, using NZ barramundi fish maw as the "noodle." Cooked to a similar shape and texture, the fish maw absorbed flavours of fish sauce, soy sauce, and oyster sauce and was topped with abalone and liver sausage. This elevated take on the hawker staple was comforting, with layers of umami richness.

Laksa Siglap 3.8/5

A different interpretation of laksa, Laksa Siglap used a fish-based broth with lasam noodles made from tapioca and rice flour. Medai fish slices, prepared with a velveting technique, gave a silky texture. While less creamy than traditional laksa, this version was nuanced and delicate.

Chicken Rice 4.5/5

Labyrinth's Chicken Rice was a beautifully composed dish with three components. French poulet breast was layered with a flavourful chicken farce and poached perfectly. The rice, a blend of Jasmine and Koshihikari grains, was cooked in a donabe for a smoky flavour, accompanied by cockscomb and chives. A grilled chicken heart skewer added depth, with each element contributing to the classic flavours in a modern format.

Pisang Goreng 4.5/5

A refined version of Pisang Goreng, this dessert featured a caramelised banana sorbet wrapped in a crispy dough and paired with spiced saffron pastry cream. The sweet and savoury notes balanced perfectly, transforming the beloved street food into a luxurious dessert experience.

Cereal Prawn 4/5

Labyrinth's Cereal Prawn reinterpreted the classic zichar dish in dessert form. This unique creation included oatmeal ice cream infused with 20-year Shaoxing wine, salted egg foam, warabi mochi, and goji berries soaked in Shaoxing wine. Served with a playful "Chef-branded" cereal box filled with puffed rice and caramelised oats, it was a delightful and nostalgic end to the main courses.

Tang Yuan 3.5/5

The Tang Yuan was a warm, comforting dessert that replaced the usual petit fours. The dumpling, filled with Azuki red beans and tangerine peel, was served in a ginger and rice wine syrup, symbolising completion and togetherness. However, the rice wine syrup may not appeal to all, though it provided an interesting twist.

Labyrinth's 10th anniversary menu beautifully celebrates Singapore's culinary heritage, reinvented with finesse. Chef Han's commitment to local flavours, ingredients, and history is evident in each dish, creating a nostalgic and forward-thinking experience. Labyrinth's new menu is a must-try for those seeking a deeply thoughtful, innovative journey through Singaporean flavours.

Note: This is an inviting tasting.


Labyrinth
Esplanade Mall
8 Raffles Avenue
#02-23
Singapore 039802
Tel: +65 62234098
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Nearest MRT: Esplanade (CC Line)

Opening Hours:
Tue-Fri: 12pm - 230pm, 630pm - 1030pm
Sat-Sun: 630pm - 1030pm

Direction:
1) Alight at Esplanade MRT station. Take Exit B or D. Walk to Raffles Avenue. Cross the road. Walk to destination. Journey time about 8 minutes. [Map]

Province @ Joo Chiat Road - A Sumptuous Exploration of Southeast Asian Summer Flavours

Returning to Province at Joo Chiat Road to experience their new Summer menu was a delight, especially after the impressive Autumn tasting we enjoyed before. Chef-owner Law Jia-Jun continues to demonstrate his creativity and skill in crafting dishes inspired by Southeast Asian ingredients, flavours, and techniques, delivering an exceptional dining experience. This 7-course dinner ($148++) is a seasonal journey that showcases the beauty and diversity of regional flavours in a refined and elevated way.

Caviar & Indonesian Flower Crab Tartlet 4.2/5

Our meal began with a couple of delicate snacks, starting with the Caviar & Indonesian Flower Crab Tartlet. The natural sweetness of the flower crab paired wonderfully with the briny pop of the caviar, creating a harmonious bite. The tartlet provided a satisfying crunch that contrasted beautifully with the tender, flavourful filling, setting the tone for the creativity we would see throughout the evening.

Panipuri with Horse Mackerel & Ginger Flower 4/5

Next was the Panipuri with Horse Mackerel & Ginger Flower, a bite-sized marvel inspired by local flavours. The bold inclusion of ginger flower evoked the flavours of rojak, and the crispy shell offered a pleasing contrast to the tender mackerel. This dish was a perfect blend of textures and an exciting tribute to familiar Southeast Asian ingredients in a new format.

Lobster Croustade 4.2/5

The last of our opening snacks was the Lobster Croustade. Presented in a house-made kueh pie tee shell infused with seaweed, this luxe twist on the traditional snack featured a filling of lobster and crispy broccoli for added texture. The croustade was garnished with delicate flower petals from Thailand, making this elegant dish as visually captivating as it was delicious.

Momotaro Tomato & Shiro Sorbet 4.8/5

Our first course was the Momotaro Tomato topped with Shiro Sorbet, a refreshing and umami-filled dish. The Japanese Momotaro tomato, sourced from Cameron Highlands, was beautifully sweet. It was peeled, stuffed with confit tomatoes, and cooked down to intensify the flavour, then topped with shiro sorbet and puffed quinoa for added crunch. The sorbet’s savoury notes paired seamlessly with the tomato, creating a balanced and layered bite.

Squid from Jurong Fishery Port 4.5/5

The Squid from Jurong Fishery Port was another unique and flavourful dish. Tender and slightly charred, the green-eye squid lay hidden beneath a silky Beurre Blanc sauce. Sambal mata added a touch of heat, while fermented kedondong introduced a subtle acidity, enhancing the dish's complexity without overpowering the delicate squid.

White Trevally with Seaweed XO 4/5

Next came the White Trevally with Seaweed XO, showcasing another unconventional fish. The white trevally had a smooth, buttery texture, and its lean, firm flesh was enhanced by the house-made seaweed XO sauce, which lent a local sambal stingray-like taste. This dish truly captured a sense of place, marrying local seafood traditions with sophisticated techniques.

Charcoal-grilled Aged Sarawak Pork 4.2/5

The Charcoal-grilled Aged Sarawak Pork was a revelation. Grilled over coals and smoked with hay, this aged pork had a perfect char and deep smoky aroma while remaining tender and juicy. It was served with edamame, mustard, and a rich pork wine reduction jus, creating a well-rounded dish that was both hearty and complex.

La Mian with Clams and Okra 4.5/5

A comforting bowl of La Mian with Clams and Okra followed, a nod to Chef Law's weekend family meals. Made with house-made noodles, grilled okra, and clams from the Philippines, the dish was bathed in a chicken consommé infused with tropical flavours from lemongrass, kaffir lime, and Vietnamese lime. This simple yet vibrant soup provided a soothing transition from the heavier dishes, signalling the end of the savoury courses.

Osmanthus & Wild Sumac 4.2/5

The dessert course began with Osmanthus Aiyu Jelly paired with compressed melon for a burst of sweetness. A wild sumac granita added refreshing acidity, while Ulam Raja introduced subtle earthy undertones that balanced the sour notes. This multi-dimensional dessert was a symphony of flavours, evoking the lightness and freshness of summer.

Grilled Pineapple and Millet Syphon 4/5

The final dessert was a delightful Grilled Pineapple and Millet Syphon. The pineapple, compressed with gula melaka and grilled over charcoal, had a beautiful caramelised sweetness. It was paired with millet foam and coconut yoghurt ice cream, which added a creamy and tangy component, rounding out the dish with a tropical flair.

Province's Summer menu is a beautiful homage to Southeast Asia, highlighting seasonal ingredients with creativity and respect for tradition. Chef Law's passion for reimagining local flavours shines through in every dish, providing a unique dining experience that feels both familiar and innovative. Province's summer menu is not to be missed for anyone seeking a refined yet playful exploration of regional flavours.

Note: This is an invited tasting.


Province
(Located inside 808 Eating House)
153 Joo Chiat Road
Singapore 427431
Tel: +65 8075 1896
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Nearest MRT: Dakota (CC Line), Paya Lebar (CC, EW Line)

Opening Hours:
Thu-Sat (Lunch)
1st Seating: 12.30pm

Tue-Sat (Dinner)
1st Seating : 6.15pm
2nd Seating : 8.30pm

Direction:
1) Alight at Dakota MRT station. Take Exit A. Walk to bus stop at block 99 (Stop ID 81181). Take bus 33. Alight 5 stops later. Walk across the open-air carpark. Walk to destination. Journey time about 12 minutes. [Map]

2) Alight at Paya Lebar MRT station. Take Exit E. Walk to Sims Ave. Cross the road and walk to Tanjong Katong Road. Walk down Tanjong Katong Road to Geylang Road. Cross the road, turn left and walk down Geylang Road. Walk to Joo Chiat Road. Turn right onto Joo Chiat Road. Walk down Joo Chiat Road. Walk to destination. Journey time about 10 minutes. [Map]