Sunday, April 2, 2023

Binary @ Palais Renaissance - Celebrating One Year Milestone With A Revamped Menu

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Binary at Palais Renaissance is a gastro-bar that conceptualises its menu based on the concept of Binary. Presenting a single produce in both Asian and Western versions, you can choose either one flavour or even both if one intrigues you just as much as the other. One year on, Binary has recently refreshed its menu to incorporate new creations in a more considered format that better reflects its binary approach towards cuisine.

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Signature Kubaneh Bread 5/5

Kubaneh is a Jewish Yemeni pull-apart bread, and what we had was done using the chef's very own winning formula. Apparently, this Signature Kubaneh Bread ($14) has made itself quite a name for the past year. And indeed, it was on every occupied table. Its beautiful gold crust illuminated in the light, and pulling it apart revealed the soft and fluffy interior. While some like it slathered with the accompanying garlic butter and kombu butter, I enjoyed it equally with the small plates and mains that were served after.

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Octopus/Lao Gan Ma Chilli Crisp 4.5/5

From Small Plates Section ($18 each), we were first served with Octopus tossed with Lao Gan Ma Chilli Crisp (+$14) was moreish and definitely the most innovative way of presenting a grilled octopus. Using the household Lao Gan Ma Chilli, the crisp itself was piquant with a desired amount of heat. The grilled octopus is served thoughtfully sliced up instead of whole, allowing each slice to be enjoyed easily with the crisp without having to slice it up with utensils.

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Sesame Prawn Toast 2/5

The following Small Plate, however, paled in comparison. The Asian approach of the Tiger Prawns is presented through a Hong Kong-style sesame prawn toast. A housemade tiger prawn paste is spread onto white bread, deep-fried and finished with a drizzle of kecap manis sauce. The idea is appealing, but not our greasy toast and the salty prawn paste.

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Fresh Burrata 4.5/5

Coming to the single produce Cheese, we had a vegan-friendly Western style - Fresh Burrata, served with homemade impossible meat sauce and basil. The meat sauce was impossibly delicious! Like a good bolognese sauce, it was well seasoned with herbs, spices and sweetness from plumb tomatoes, and the minced impossible had a nice bite to it, unlike some other vegan versions, which turned out somewhat mushy. It was indeed a fitting match with the divine pillowy soft burrata.

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Wagyu Petit Tender 3/5

The Asian-style Wagyu Petit Tender is new, glazed with savoury char siew sauce. My favourite parts were the tail and front, fully caramelized on one side. Unfortunately, the larger slices in between were a tad underseasoned.

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King Prawn 2.5/5

We had King Prawn (tasting portion) oven baked with cajun herb butter for the Mains. The flavours were good, but the prawns lacked the desired firmness.

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Oven-Roasted Whole Spatchcock Chicken 4/5

We also had Asian-style Oven-Roasted Whole Spatchcock Chicken (tasting portion). It has the flavours of an Asian soy chicken but is even tastier with a savoury-sweet, slightly charred skin. The meat was tender, and even the lean breast meat portion was delectable.

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Grilled Asparagus 3.5/5

New highlights under Sides ($14) include a Grilled Asparagus flavoured with housemade egg aioli, grated Parmigiano and salt-cured egg yolk. I couldn't taste the latter as it was being grated, but overall, it was an excellent complement to the mains.

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Hongkong Egglet 4/5

The Dessert section surprised us with an unexpected offering - Hongkong Egglet with blue sea salt ice cream, yuzu jam and chocolate balls. I enjoyed it far more than any egglet I have tried in Singapore. You get an abundance of textures. Some egg pockets were fluffy, some were crisp on one side and doughy on the other, just like a typical egglet. I was impressed! The accompaniments are odd though. Perhaps they should just serve in Hongkong style, with condensed milk, sugar and peanut butter.

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Alongside Binary also debuts a cocktail menu that adopts the same binary presentation, where you get a list of Classic offerings synergised with another list with an Asian style.

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Photos and words by Si An. A girl who is allured by travelling, loves the feel of freedom, smell of the rain and the aroma of fine coffee and food. Note: This is an invited tasting.


Binary
Palais Renaissance
390 Orchard Road
#01-01A
Singapore 238871
Tel: +65 93630101
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Nearest MRT: Orchard (NS, TE Line)

Opening Hours
Sun-Tue: 1130am - 1030pm
Wed–Sat: 1130am to 12midnight

Direction:
Alight at Orchard MRT station. Take Exit 4. Walk to Wheelock Place. Walk to traffic junction of Orchard Road and Angullia Park. Cross the road to Royal Thai Embassy. Turn left and continue down Orchard Road. Walk to destination. Journey time about 8 minutes. [Map]

Saturday, April 1, 2023

Hanazen @ Chijmes - Eminent Chef Yusuke Takada Opens First Overseas Duo-Concept, Charcoal-Grilled Omakase And French Brasserie In Singapore

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The founder of Two Michelin-starred and World's 50 Best Restaurant La Cime in Osaka, Chef Yusuke Takada, opened its first overseas duo-concept restaurant - HANAZEN, in Singapore on 12 March 2023. The duo concept comprises a charcoal-grilled Omakase and French brasserie. The French brasserie will be opened later, but as of now, it will focus on its charcoal-grilled Omakase dinner menu.

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Hanazen's Daily Soup 3.5/5

I visited the restaurant and had its Hanazen 16-course Omakase Dinner Menu ($240). It comprises a selection of signature and seasonal dishes. We are welcomed with the Hanazen's Daily Soup, a clear and aromatic broth from boiling kombu dashi and chicken bones for 6 hours.

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Singa-Dog 4/5

The Singa-Dog is a reinvention of La Cime's Boudin Dog dish. The Singapore version consists of chicken floss and chicken liver encased in a fried charcoal battered ball brushed with a punchy buah keluak sauce. Bite into the sphere for an explosion of flavours.

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Beef & Tuna Tartlet 4/5

Delicately pieced together is the Beef & Tuna Tartlet. The crispy beetroot shell housed a medley of raw wagyu, akami and guacamole, garnished with julienned ginger flower and red amaranth leaves. It is a delightful tartare morsel that can be enjoyed in a bite.

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Panna Cotta 4.5/5

While I am told that Singapore's kaya toast inspires the Panna Cotta dish, I could not associate the dish with it. However, this is a beautiful dish in terms of presentation and taste. Served chilled, the savoury pandan flan is stubbed with seasonal Hamaguri clams from Japan, layered with bread tuile and nanohana buds for textures, and finished with caviar for brininess.

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Sea Foie Gras/ Choucroute/ Urui 4/5

Sea Foie Gras refers to the sake and cognac steamed monkfish liver (ankimo). It is served chilled with a refreshing, tangy Alsatian-style choucroute dressing similar to German sauerkraut. What excited me was a new produce I had not tried before, the young green shoots of urui. The crispy and grassy notes from the urui help to cleanse the palate after having the rich and fatty ankimo.

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Prawns and Chicken Tail, Porcini Sauce 4/5

Moving on to the grill, we started with the Prawns and Chicken Tail with Porcini Sauce. We are told to have the Gambero Rosso first, followed by a piece of the fatty chicken tail. Then, lastly, have both the prawn and chicken tail together.

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Chicken Heart, Mustard and Olive Sauce 4/5

I am an innard person; hence I really enjoyed the Chicken Heart grilled to a delightful tender, smartly paired with tangy whole grain mustard and olive leaf sauce.

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Nodoguro, Fukinoto Miso Sauce, Grilled Turnip 4.2/5

Next is the Nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch), known for its buttery, sweet flesh in Fukinoto miso sauce. It is paired with grilled turnip, another feature of spring vegetables. It is also a timely break from the grilled items.

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Abalone, Chicken Gizzard, Gyoja-Ninniku Butter 4/5

Back to the grilled items, we continued with the Abalone, served with chicken gizzards dressed in gyoja-ninniku butter. The Awabi abalone is sou vide for 12 hours to achieve a tender, yet bouncy texture, finished with caramelisation from the bincho tan.

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Chicken Liver, Raisin Sauce 3.5/5

I love Chicken Liver, which is a side dish I will order whenever I have chicken rice. Hence I was looking forward to savouring the creamy chicken liver served with raisin sauce, topped with julienned oba leaf and flowers for a contrasting freshness. However, the raisin sauce is too sweet, throwing the balance off. I would prefer having the chicken liver without the sauce.

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Chicken Wing, Konbu Furikake 3/5

Next is the grilled deboned Chicken Wing, lightly seasoned with furikake that allows one to appreciate the flavour of the chicken.

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Lamb, Yoghurt Sauce 4.2/5

Baby lamb shoulder is used for the Lamb skewer for its tender and mild profile. Its natural flavour is accentuated by the kiss of the grill, complemented by the creamy herbed yoghurt sauce.

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Chicken Skin, Spice Mix

Back to the chicken part, we had the Chicken Skin dusted with a spice mix. It is slowly grilled at a low temperature to achieve the ideal crispiness.

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Wagyu Ribeye, Perigueux Sauce 4/5

To be frank, I was delighted that we have moved on from the yakitori items with the Wagyu Ribeye. The yakitori items are good, but I expected more regarding ingredients and produces for the price tag for the omakase menu. The beautiful red meat is paired with perigueux sauce, a rich French classic Madeira and truffle sauce that lifts the enjoyment.

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Soumen, Warabi, Dashi 4.2/5

The last savoury dish is the Soumen in a rich dashi and chicken broth, garnished with coriander and the stalk of wild Japanese fern. The slurping goodness is elevated by adding chicken oil, adding depth and richness to the dish.

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Kyoto Uji Matcha Ice Cream, Fermented Banana

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Hanazen Financier

Moving to dessert, we had the Kyoto Uji Matcha Ice Cream. Combining matcha ice cream with fermented banana cream may sound weird, but surprisingly it works! Accompanying the ice cream is the Hanazen Financier. The bite-size treat closes the 16-course omakase menu with a mildly sweet finish.

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While I enjoyed the food, I did not find the 16-course menu to be value for money. The price of $240 and being served chicken parts such as the chicken tail, chicken heart, chicken liver, chicken wing and chicken skin will raise some eyebrows for some customers. The restaurant tried to supplement with premium and imported ingredients/produces throughout the course, but it was insufficient to convince the paying customers.

Note: This is another invited tasting.


Hanazen by Yusuke Takada
Chijmes
30 Victoria Street
#01-21/22
Singapore 187996
Tel: +65 98202963
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Nearest MRT: City Hall (EW, NS Line), Bras Basah (CC Line)

Opening Hours:
Tue-Sun: 6pm - 11pm
(Closed on Mon)

Direction:
1) Alight at City Hall MRT station. Take Exit A. Cut across Raffles City Shopping Centre to Bras Basah Road. At the junction of Bras Basah Road and North Bridge Road, cross the road to Chijmes. Journey time about 5 minutes. [Map]

2) Alight at Bras Basah MRT station. Take Exit A. Walk southwards towards Victoria Road. At the junction of Bras Basah Road and Victoria Road, cross the junction to Chijmes. Journey time about 5 minutes. [Map]