Tuesday, November 6, 2018

Bacchanalia by Vianney Massot @ Hong Kong Street - Probably Aiming For Its Second Star With Chef Vianney At The Helm

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The wait is over as Bacchanalia, the one Michelin-starred restaurant reopens after a two-month revamp. Besides the refreshed interior, it also welcomes a new executive chef, Chef Vianney Massot previously from the now-defunct two Michelin-starred L'Atelier Joel Robuchon Singapore. In addition, Chef Vianney has also curated a brand new menu that showcases his French techniques with the use of Asian spices in his dishes.

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There are only two menus for the time being, The restaurant offers a five-course lunch degustation ($158++) and seven-course dinner degustation ($298++). We started with some complimentary bread and butter before moving to the dishes.

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Crispy Sphere of Young Comte Cheese 4/5

I am actually not sure whether the Crispy Sphere of Young Comte Cheese is part of the seven-course menu as I was told the Foie Gras Symphony is actually the amuse bouche. Probably this is a welcome snack or extra amuse bouche? Nevertheless, I enjoy the lightness of the crispy cheese which is pretty delightful for a bite.


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Foie Gras Symphony 4.2/5

Foie Gras Symphony is probably the most generous amuse bouche I have ever encountered. It is actually a whole dish by itself. On the plate is a bed of foie gras cream cooked with port wine, with a layer of duck jelly on top. The yellow dots are corn puree topped with concentrated parsley. In the middle is crunchy popcorn sitting atop white truffle shavings. It is like having a plate of concentrated soup with the different combination coming together. A distinctly flavour I picked up is the pungent Sarawak pepper in the dish, giving it a peppery finishing.

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Scallop Ravioli with Kumquat Emulsion 3.5/5

The Scallop Ravioli with Kumquat Emulsion is demonstrates Chef Vianney's culinary philosophy at Bacchanalia, incorporating Asian flavours in his French cooking techniques. The Hokkaido scallop is crowned with uni and imperial caviar, accompanied with stalk of young baby leek. The interplay of crunchy and creamy is a hit and miss for me. The hit is the delicious kumquat emulsion and the miss is actually the same thing as I can't really taste the kumquat in it.

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Ceps Tartelette 4/5

Beautifully plated like a rose are slices of French porcini mushroom and eggplant that forms the Ceps Tartelette. Underneath the lovely rose petals is actually a thin circular crisp. What actually interests me more is the accompanying mushroom consomme that has chicken essence and ginger in it. Another interesting combination of incorporating Asian flavours with French techniques.

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Alba White Truffle Tagliatelle 3.8/5

The pairing of pasta and uni is quite common but pasta with Shanghai hairy crab is a new to me. The Alba White Truffle Tagliatelle comes with ribbons of pasta coated in a creamy sauce made with Shanghai hair crab. You can also find bits of female crab roes in it. The jewel of the crown has to be the white truffle shavings. While the dish is excellent on its own, I felt that it didn't really showcases the umami flavour of the hairy crab roes.

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Slow Cooked Bresse Chicken 4.2/5

I am really excited when I get to know that I am having Slow Cooked Bresse Chicken with Ivory Sauce. This is because I am having the most expensive chicken in the world - poulet de Bresse. Accordingly to an article in CNN Travel, the chicken can cost up to $40 Euro per kilogram which is around $63 Singapore dollar per kilogram. That is an expensive chicken.

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I am not sure how the chicken was cooked but the chef definitely gives justice to the expensive ingredient. The chicken is sweet, moist and tender. Personally I thought the chicken skin was quite unique, it is not the jelly type we used to get from poached chicken but somewhat rubbery in a good way. It has a contrasting crunchy texture which I enjoyed. Not forgetting the luscious ivory sauce that complements the chicken excellently. In our local contexts, chicken comes with chicken rice. At Bacchanalia, the Bresse chicken is served alongside a creamy and cheesy plate of risotto.

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Fresh Tropical Fruit 3.5/5

The palate cleanser is the Fresh Tropical Fruit in a medley of diced pineapple and passionfruit, topped with light coconut foam. The acidity of the diced fruits is harmonised by the sweetness of the coconut foam, for a refreshing finish.

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Orange and Ctrus Marmalade 3.8/5

Dessert is Orange and Citrus Marmalade made from blood oranges. A round shaped bergamot sorbet rests atop slices of orange flesh and earl grey tea jelly. On the side are dollops of vanilla cream and crispy-dried oranges. It is a nice dessert but I was somehow expecting something more, probably more sophisticate and complex.

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With the new Executive Chef at the helm, it probably signals the ambition of Bacchanalia to soar greater high in the Michelin recognition. After trying the dishes by Chef Vianney, I can clearly taste the message in his food, using French techniques with Asian flavours. As for the price point, I felt it is expensive for a one Michelin-starred restaurant.

Note: This is an invited tasting.


Bacchanalia By Vianney Massot
39 Hong Kong Street
Singapore 059678
Tel: +65 69096360
Facebook
Website
Nearest MRT: Clarke Quay (NE Line)

Opening Hours:
Tue-Sat: 12pm - 2pm, 6pm - 945pm
(closed on Sun-Mon)

Direction: 
1) Alight at Clark Quay MRT station. Take Exit E. Cross the road using the overhead bridge. Turn left and walk down New Bridge Road. Turn left onto Hong Kong Street. Walk to destination. Journey time about 5 minutes. [Map]

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