Sofitel Singapore City Centre has a new Director of Culinary and Beverage on board - Isaac Henry. His culinary experience spans continents, honing his skills in Michelin-starred restaurants in both Paris and Singapore. As a strong advocator of sustainable dining, it is no surprise that you might have spotted him on the host of a six-part docu-series on Channel News Asia titled 'Zero Waste Kitchen'. On the refreshed Racines's menu, other than its attention-grabbing fashion magazine-style design, new signatures are introduced that were conceptualised with the environment in mind.
Chicken & Duck Foie Gras Mousse 4.8/5
Chef Isaac would like to call the Chicken & Duck Foie Gras Mousse a marriage between Asian food and French dishes – reflecting the restaurant's signature cuisine. The chicken liver is locally sourced, aligning with our commitment to sustainability. A small portion of duck liver is blended with chicken liver, cream and egg to achieve a velvety texture. Adding sweet and tangy Chinese black wine vinegar elevates this mousse to another level brilliantly, much like how a fruit compote complements the richness and flavour of a liver pate with a delightful touch of sweet acidity. It formed a luxurious spread for the sourdough bread served on the side.
Charred Asparagus with Housemade Hollandaise 5/5
I thoroughly enjoyed the Charred Asparagus, which differentiates itself with a tantalising combination of flavours and textures brought to life by creamy housemade Hollandaise, umami Shio Kombu, and sugar-roasted Almonds ($26). The asparagus, charred on an open-fire grill, was laced with a delightful smoky nuance, adding a flavour depth to the dish. The creamy and substantial sauce lent a satisfying mouthfeel to the asparagus, with its sweetness aptly balanced by the savoury shio kombu. The almond candies provided a morish textural crunch, completing this enticing plate of asparagus.
Otak Otak 4/5
Otak Otak ($18) features a spiced Spanish Mackerel Fish cake roasted in a Banana Leaf parcel served with housemade cincalok sauce. Chef Isaac used one of his oldest recipes when craving for otak-otak abroad, and none was readily available. Using a traditional way of making otak otak, made by blending slow-cooked rempah paste for two hours, he also added fresh water chestnuts for texture. I like the lightness of this Otak Otak versus some, which are more assertive in terms of the spice content. The cincalok sauce enlivened its taste even further.
Ngoh Hiang 4/5
Ngoh Hiang features Crispy Five-Spiced Seafood Wrapped in Beancurd Skin Served with Housemade Chilli Sauce ($18). Crusted within was a juicy seafood filling made with sotong paste, prawn meat, and crabmeat. Instead of the sweet sauce, we have a punchy house-fermented chilli sauce resulting from blended spices that is left to sit for a day to ferment.
Prawn Biryani 4.5/5
Chef Isaac's Smoked Argentinian Red Prawn Biryani Served with Salted Yoghurt ($36) is a "nontraditional version", which is a cure for hangover to me. The prawns were pre-seared, effectively sealing an incredible amount of juices within the heads. You will get everything in one spoonful by layering the rice with Spiced Ghee and Cashews and masala made with prawns. Although the rice was saucier than I would have liked it to be, the presence of the well-caramelised onions and the salted yoghurt served on the side provided a great balance to the masala.
Crispy Scale Red Snapper 4.8/5
The Crispy Scale Red Snapper ($42) comprises pumpkin puree, wilted baby spinach, squid ink, and beurre blanc. Snapper is also locally sourced from a farmer who slaughters and fillets it Ikejime-style, which kills it instantly, resulting in less blood and tender flesh. It gives it a much whiter, tastier flesh. Indeed, what we had was beautiful, moist and tender with a supreme taste. What I also appreciate is how the scales were left intact and crisped with hot oil as a means to minimise wastage. As the presentation of such dishes has a typical neutral flavour profile, the accompanying wilted spinach is cooked with squid ink to add that extra savoury element to enhance the flavour profile of the fish.
Sliced Beef Hor Fun 4.2/5
Sliced Beef Hor Fun features a wok-tossed thinly sliced Argentinian Grain-fed Beef with Flat Rice Noodles and Garlic Crisp ($38). While it is tough to attain a deep wok hei flavour into the rice noodle, this is nonetheless a very decadent version with soft and tender Beef Argentinian striploin. I also enjoyed how sweet the spring onions were, which balanced the flavour of this highly flavour dish. Attention is paid to the Garlic crisps. They are coated with flour and then fried to get a long-lasting crisp. However, I preferred a broader type of flat rice noodles for a better texture.
Sautéed Clams Manila Clams 4.8/5
Sautéed Clams Manila Clams ($60) stood out with a heedy broth. Chef Isaac uses locally sourced Manila clams, which do not have many sand sediments and are sweet in flavour. Tossed in Aged Guanciale, Housemade Nduja Butter and Parsley Pistou, the broth had so much body and packed a punch of flavour. The Nduja is sourced from a Basque country (France), producing milder' nduja. Hence, the sweetness of the clams was still very much present. Parsley Pistou was sharp, accenting the broth with herbaceous nuances.
Almond & Logan 4/5
For dessert, Chef Isaac's rendition of the Almond & Logan surprised me with an aesthetically pleasing plating and an exceptionally creamy Almond jelly. The white fungus could have been more cooked through for a softer texture.
Skillet Baked Dark chocolate Cookie 4.5/5
Skillet Baked Dark chocolate Cookie Salted Hokkaido Milk Ice Cream ($23) is a comfort food that will lift your spirits. The Skillet baking creates crisp edges with a moist and gooey centre.
Textures of Meringue 3/5
Pavlova features Textures of Meringue with Passion Fruit Sorbet, Micro Basil and Strawberries ($22). I find most meringue desserts to be on the sweeter side; hence, this is my least favourite of the lot.
Photos and words by Si An. A girl who is allured by travelling, loves the feel of freedom, smell of the rain and the aroma of fine coffee and food. Note: This is an invited tasting.
Racines
Sofitel Singapore City Centre
Level 5
9 Wallich Street
Singapore 078885
Tel: +65 64285000
Website
Nearest MRT: Tanjong Pagar (EW Line)
Opening Hours:
Daily: 7am - 1030am, 12pm - 3pm, 530pm - 10pm
Direction:
1) Alight at Tanjong Pagar MRT station. Take Exit A. Turn right on Peck Seah Street. Walk to destination. Journey time about 3 minutes. [Map]
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