Labyrinth @ Esplanade Mall - Celebrating 10 Years of Singapore’s Culinary Heritage with a Refreshed Focus and Renewed Impetus

Marking its 10th anniversary, Labyrinth by Chef Han Li Guang continues to redefine Singaporean cuisine. Since opening in 2014, Labyrinth has become synonymous with heritage preservation, culinary creativity, and local ingredients, evolving into a highly-regarded fine dining experience. This October 2024, Chef Han and his team have brought a fresh perspective, exploring Singapore's food heritage through a new, refined lens. The 13-course dinner menu ($298++) is a tribute to Singapore's culinary traditions, reimagined with precision and artistry.

Bak Kut Teh Consomme 4.5/5

Our meal opened with the Bak Kut Teh Consommé. This starter was a delicate yet flavourful dashi broth, capturing the essence of traditional Bak Kut Teh without overpowering the palate. Serving this as a first course was a thoughtful nod to Singaporean dining culture, where a light soup often begins the meal to whet the appetite. It was an impressive, nuanced start.

Ramly Burger 4.2/5

The Ramly Burger was a playful miniature inspired by the iconic Ramly burger from Pasar Malams (local night markets). Labyrinth's version features an aburi hand-chopped beef flank patty wrapped in an eggy parcel, with tomato meringue buns topped with sesame seeds. Topped with Labyrinth's "Ramly sauce" and mustard cress, this bite-sized snack delivered nostalgia and innovation in one.

Oyster Bao 4.8/5

My favourite snack, the Oyster Bao, was Labyrinth's take on the disappearing Fuzhou Haobing street snack. This bao used a David Herve oyster no.4 and a delicate espuma batter to create a beignet-like texture. The flavours were layered and precise, with a light, airy crust surrounding the oyster — a beautifully elevated version of a rare street food.

Hainanese Curry Puff 4/5

Dubbed the Old Han Kee, Labyrinth's Hainanese Curry Puff pays homage to Singapore's iconic curry puff brand, Old Chang Kee. It is filled with oyster mushrooms, sweet corn, sweet potato, and braised pork belly and served with garlic aioli for extra richness. It is a satisfying and comforting bite.

Satay Club 4.2/5

Named after Singapore's historic Satay Club, this course featured two skewers — a Pork Satay and a Chicken Tsukune. The pork skewers, with loin and jowl, offered contrasting textures, reminiscent of Hainanese satay, while the tsukune encased a quail egg and was inspired by Japanese tsukune and Scotch egg. Paired with Filipino kare-kare peanut sauce, the skewers captured the essence of Southeast Asia's diverse satay styles.

RotiBoy 4.2/5

Labyrinth's RotiBoy transported me back to childhood with its coffee-flavoured craquelin atop a soft brioche filled with Bordier seaweed butter. The nostalgic flavours of Singapore's popular coffee bun were beautifully recreated, with subtle sweetness and a light coffee aroma.

Wartime Rojak 4.5/5

Inspired by an old recipe from the 1942-1950 cookbook "Wartime Kitchen," the Wartime Rojak reimagines a British-influenced Asian salad. Beetroot was prepared as a rosette and sorbet, accompanied by cucumber and lettuce granite, pineapple, and herbs like shiso. It was a refreshing, complex dish with sweet, savoury, and acidic notes, embodying the essence of rojak in a contemporary way. Notably, this dish replaced Labyrinth's iconic Chilli Crab, reflecting the restaurant's commitment to continual evolution.

Fish Maw Char Kway Teow 4.5/5

Labyrinth introduced Char Kway Teow with a twist, using NZ barramundi fish maw as the "noodle." Cooked to a similar shape and texture, the fish maw absorbed flavours of fish sauce, soy sauce, and oyster sauce and was topped with abalone and liver sausage. This elevated take on the hawker staple was comforting, with layers of umami richness.

Laksa Siglap 3.8/5

A different interpretation of laksa, Laksa Siglap used a fish-based broth with lasam noodles made from tapioca and rice flour. Medai fish slices, prepared with a velveting technique, gave a silky texture. While less creamy than traditional laksa, this version was nuanced and delicate.

Chicken Rice 4.5/5

Labyrinth's Chicken Rice was a beautifully composed dish with three components. French poulet breast was layered with a flavourful chicken farce and poached perfectly. The rice, a blend of Jasmine and Koshihikari grains, was cooked in a donabe for a smoky flavour, accompanied by cockscomb and chives. A grilled chicken heart skewer added depth, with each element contributing to the classic flavours in a modern format.

Pisang Goreng 4.5/5

A refined version of Pisang Goreng, this dessert featured a caramelised banana sorbet wrapped in a crispy dough and paired with spiced saffron pastry cream. The sweet and savoury notes balanced perfectly, transforming the beloved street food into a luxurious dessert experience.

Cereal Prawn 4/5

Labyrinth's Cereal Prawn reinterpreted the classic zichar dish in dessert form. This unique creation included oatmeal ice cream infused with 20-year Shaoxing wine, salted egg foam, warabi mochi, and goji berries soaked in Shaoxing wine. Served with a playful "Chef-branded" cereal box filled with puffed rice and caramelised oats, it was a delightful and nostalgic end to the main courses.

Tang Yuan 3.5/5

The Tang Yuan was a warm, comforting dessert that replaced the usual petit fours. The dumpling, filled with Azuki red beans and tangerine peel, was served in a ginger and rice wine syrup, symbolising completion and togetherness. However, the rice wine syrup may not appeal to all, though it provided an interesting twist.

Labyrinth's 10th anniversary menu beautifully celebrates Singapore's culinary heritage, reinvented with finesse. Chef Han's commitment to local flavours, ingredients, and history is evident in each dish, creating a nostalgic and forward-thinking experience. Labyrinth's new menu is a must-try for those seeking a deeply thoughtful, innovative journey through Singaporean flavours.

Note: This is an inviting tasting.


Labyrinth
Esplanade Mall
8 Raffles Avenue
#02-23
Singapore 039802
Tel: +65 62234098
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Nearest MRT: Esplanade (CC Line)

Opening Hours:
Tue-Fri: 12pm - 230pm, 630pm - 1030pm
Sat-Sun: 630pm - 1030pm

Direction:
1) Alight at Esplanade MRT station. Take Exit B or D. Walk to Raffles Avenue. Cross the road. Walk to destination. Journey time about 8 minutes. [Map]

Fatt Choy Eating House (發財餐馆) @ Haji Lane - Enjoy Modern Singaporean Fare With Craft Beers and Sake

Fatt Choy Eating House at Haji Lane prides itself on its modern Singaporean fare, complemented by house-brewed beers and locally brewed sakes. Situated opposite its sister brand, Good Luck Beerhouse, Fatt Choy offers a well-curated menu that features small plates and bites that pair perfectly with drinks and classic local delicacies served in much heartier portions.

Pitan with Ice Lettuce 4.2/5

The vegetable dishes are meant to be as indulgent. We started with a refreshing Pitan with Ice Lettuce, which combined ultra-creamy Taiwanese Century Egg with a Pickled Ginger Dressing, providing a great contrast with the crunch of the Ice Lettuce. This dish hit all the right notes with its balance of creaminess and texture.

Wawa Cabbage with Fried Dace 4.5/5

The umami-packed Wawa Cabbage with Fried Dace ($12) brought a nostalgic flavour, with the fried dace sauce recalling the familiar taste of fermented black beans, albeit in a healthier version.

Masala Brussels Sprout 3/5

The Masala Brussels Sprout ($15) delighted with its chunky fried sprouts, but the masala sauce lacked depth and could have benefited from more tang and robustness.

Iberico Satay 3.8/5

The Iberico Satay ($15) featured grilled Secreto Iberico Pork skewers paired with Javanese Peanut Sauce and Pineapple Salsa. One of the tastiest skewers I had with all the sauce and zingy salsa, but a bit more grilling to render the fat and add a more robust char on the meat would have elevated the dish.

Singapore Fried Hokkien Mee 4.2/5

The signature dishes included Singapore Fried Hokkien Mee ($18) and XO Carrot Cake ($15). Although the wok hei was missing from the Hokkien Mee, it was still rich in flavour, loaded with various cuts of pork, squid, and a handful of crispy pork lard. The accompanying sambal was spot-on.

XO Carrot Cake 3.8/5

The XO Carrot Cake stood out for being generously coated with XO sauce, delivering a surprisingly well-rounded flavour with fried egg, beansprouts, and chives. However, the radish cake lacked caramelisation, likely due to being prepared with just a quick toss in the sauce.

KL Dai Lok Mee 4.2/5

KL Dai Lok Mee is a more elevated version of KL style Hokkien Mee, served in a claypot and adorned with mini abalones, offering a much celebratory vibe. There were also tender pork tendons in it, flavoursome with the sauce and adding even more textural bite to the noodles. Serving it in a claypot allowed the sauce to thicken and caramelise over time, enhancing the overall dish.

Kaya Ice Cream with House-made Churro 4.8/5

For dessert, Fatt Choy keeps it simple with one option and a delicious one: Kaya Ice Cream with House-made Churro ($12). This coconut cream-based kaya ice cream, housemade with fresh pandan, struck the right balance of sweetness and aroma and paired perfectly with the churro, which had a golden crust and a light, airy bite.

The restaurant also collaborates with a local sake brewery to offer a unique sake menu. We tried Utama The 2nd (Fresh on Tap) ($25) and the creamy, unfiltered Cempedak Cream Sake ($15), both of which complemented the food well.

Words by Si An. A girl who is allured by travelling, loves the feel of freedom, smell of the rain and the aroma of fine coffee and food.


Fatt Choy Eating House
10 Haji Lane
Singapore 189203
Tel: +65 8128 0660
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Nearest MRT: Bugis (EW, DT Line)

Opening Hours:
Daily: 11am - 1030pm

Direction:
1) Alight at Bugis MRT station. Take Exit B or E. Walk to North Bridge Road. Walk down North Bridge Road to junction of North Bridge Road and Ophir Road. Cross the road and walk to Haji Lane. Turn right onto Haji Lane. Walk to destination. Journey time about 8 minutes. [Map]

Town Restaurant @ The Fullerton Hotel Singapore - "Heritage Hawker Stories: Reunion Feast" in Collaboration with Six Local Hawkers

In celebration of National Day, Town Restaurant at The Fullerton Hotel Singapore presents the "Heritage Hawker Stories: Reunion Feast", a collaboration with six esteemed local hawkers: Ah Hui Prawn Noodle, Good Chance Popiah, Ministry of Rojak, To-Ricos Kway Chap, Warong Serembat Satay, and 146 Famous Bukit Merah Ang Ku Kueh. This special event, running throughout August, offers diners a chance to savour iconic Singaporean hawker dishes in a luxurious setting.

Ah Hui Prawn Noodle

I made a beeline for Ah Hui Prawn Noodle, one of my all-time favourite stalls. This nostalgic dish is a rare treat since the owner has retired, coming out of retirement specifically for this event. The umami-packed broth, rich with the flavours of prawn and pork, brought back fond memories and nearly brought tears to my eyes.

To-Rico Kway Chap

Next, I indulged in the famous To-Ricos Kway Chap from Old Airport Road Food Centre. As soon as I entered Town Restaurant, the herbal aroma from the boiling broth filled the air. The generous portion included braised pork trotter, pig skin, braised pork belly, tau pok, braised egg, and big and small intestines. The rich, savoury broth and tender meats were a true delight.

Warong Serembat Satay

Warong Serembat Satay from Upper Boon Keng Food Centre was another highlight. The beef and chicken satay, grilled over a charcoal fire, filled the air with a beautiful aroma. The satay was plump and juicy, perfectly complemented by a deliciously nutty satay sauce.

Good Chance Popiah

Good Chance Popiah, established in 1977, is another heritage guest hawker at the buffet. The popiah was freshly wrapped on the spot, packed with turnips, prawns, sliced omelette, lettuce, beansprouts, sweet sauce, chilli, garlic, peanuts, and coriander. Each bite was a burst of flavours and textures.

Ministry of Rojak

Ministry of Rojak, by the popular Adhus Salam Rojak from Ayer Rajah Food Centre, was also featured. The wide variety of deep-fried ingredients were placed in a big basket, allowing diners to pick their favourites — the assortment of flavours and textures made for a satisfying and delicious experience.

146 Famous Bukit Merah Ang Ku Kueh

Lastly, I tried 146 Famous Bukit Merah Ang Ku Kueh for the first time. Available in five flavours — Peanut, Bean, Corn, Coconut, and Durian — I found the skin a bit thick and the filling too sparse, resulting in a less-than-ideal bite.

Laksa

Rojak

Durian Chendol

In addition to these featured hawkers, the buffet also included local favourites such as Laksa, Rojak, and Durian Chendol. Stepping into Town Restaurant in August felt like entering a hawker centre, where you can indulge in a variety of iconic Singaporean dishes in one sitting.

Beyond the hawker cuisine, diners can also look forward to an eclectic spread of Chinese and Indian cuisine, as well as the ever-popular Sushi and Sashimi station and the Seafood on Ice station.

Sashimi

Seafood on Ice

Heritage Hawker Stories: Reunion Feast
1 to 31 August 2024
Tuesday to Saturday, 6.30 p.m. to 10.00 p.m.
S$88* per adult, S$44* per child (six to 11 years old) from Tuesday to Thursday
S$98* per adult, S$49* per child (six to 11 years old) from Friday and Saturday To-Ricos Kway Chap will be available from Wednesday to Saturday exclusively.

For dining reservations, visit www.fullertonhotels.com/dining or email dining-rsvp@fullertonhotels.com.
*Prices are subject to service charge and prevailing government taxes.

Note: This is an invited tasting.


Town Restaurant
The Fullerton Hotel Singapore
1 Fullerton Square
Singapore 049178
Tel: +65 68778188
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Nearest MRT: Raffles Place (EW Line, NS Line)

Opening Hours:
Daily: 630pm - 1030pm

Direction:
1) Alight at Raffles Place MRT Station. Take Exit H. Turn right and walk towards the river. At the river, turn right again and walk to destination. Journey time about 5 minutes. [Map]

Spruce Petite @ East Coast Road - Pet Friendly Restaurant with All Day Brunch

Spruce Petite is the latest addition to the vibrant dining scene on East Coast Road, offering a unique dual experience. During the day, it serves as a pet-friendly restaurant with an all-day brunch menu. By night, it transforms into a gastropub, providing a delightful selection of bar bites complemented by an extensive beverage list that includes wine, spirits, and cocktails.

Kok Kok Satay 3.5/5

We began our meal with the Kok Kok Satay ($10), whimsically named for its playful twist on traditional chicken satay. The chicken skewers were grilled to a tender perfection with a slight char on the exterior. However, the lack of smokiness hinted that they were likely grilled over an electric grill rather than charcoal. Despite this, the accompanying peanut sauce was spot on, adding a rich, savoury complement to the satay.

Garlic Butter Prawn Aglio Olio Pasta 3/5

Next, we tried the Garlic Butter Prawn Aglio Olio Pasta ($16). This dish, featuring spaghetti cooked with garlic, olive oil, and chilli padi, delivered a satisfying spicy kick. While it was a safe and decent choice, it could have been more extraordinary. It's a reliable option if you're in the mood for a classic pasta dish.

Pork Benny 3.5/5

From the brunch menu, we sampled the Pork Benny ($15). This dish combines marinated slow-cooked pulled pork and sous vide egg, resting atop a homemade English muffin and dressed in hollandaise sauce. The different components came together harmoniously, creating a hearty and satisfying meal that left a positive impression.

Beef Sausage & Potato Rosti 3.8/5

Another brunch item we tried was the Beef Sausage & Potato Rosti ($15). The highlight of this dish was the potato rosti, which boasted a crispy exterior and was topped with a perfectly poached egg, all tied together by a drizzle of hollandaise sauce. The smoked beef sausage was equally delicious, making this a standout item on the brunch menu.

Spruce Petite adds a refreshing dynamic to East Coast Road's versatile offerings. Whether you're looking for a pet-friendly brunch spot or a lively gastropub experience in the evening, this new establishment has something for everyone. While not uniformly exceptional, the dishes provide reliable and satisfying options, with some standout items worth trying. I understand they will revamp their menu soon, so do look out for that.

Note: This is an invited tasting.


Spruce Petite
19 East Coast Road
Singapore 428746
Tel: +65 9068 9249
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Nearest MRT: Dakota (CC Line), Marine Parade (TE Line)

Opening Hours:
Mon-Thu: 3pm - 11pm
Fri: 3pm - 12midnight
Sat-Sun: 1030am - 11pm

Direction:
1) Alight at Dakota MRT station. Take Exit A. Walk to bus stop at block 99 (Stop ID 81181). Take bus number 10 or 32. Alight 6 stops later. Walk to destination. Journey time about 15 minutes. [Map]

2) Alight at Marine Parade MRT station. Take Exit 2. Walk to Brooke Road. Turn right onto Brooke Road. Walk down Brooke Road to East Coast Road. Cross the road, turn left and walk to destination. Journey time about 5 minutes.  [Map]