Labyrinth @ Esplanade Mall - Celebrating 10 Years of Singapore’s Culinary Heritage with a Refreshed Focus and Renewed Impetus

Marking its 10th anniversary, Labyrinth by Chef Han Li Guang continues to redefine Singaporean cuisine. Since opening in 2014, Labyrinth has become synonymous with heritage preservation, culinary creativity, and local ingredients, evolving into a highly-regarded fine dining experience. This October 2024, Chef Han and his team have brought a fresh perspective, exploring Singapore's food heritage through a new, refined lens. The 13-course dinner menu ($298++) is a tribute to Singapore's culinary traditions, reimagined with precision and artistry.

Bak Kut Teh Consomme 4.5/5

Our meal opened with the Bak Kut Teh Consommé. This starter was a delicate yet flavourful dashi broth, capturing the essence of traditional Bak Kut Teh without overpowering the palate. Serving this as a first course was a thoughtful nod to Singaporean dining culture, where a light soup often begins the meal to whet the appetite. It was an impressive, nuanced start.

Ramly Burger 4.2/5

The Ramly Burger was a playful miniature inspired by the iconic Ramly burger from Pasar Malams (local night markets). Labyrinth's version features an aburi hand-chopped beef flank patty wrapped in an eggy parcel, with tomato meringue buns topped with sesame seeds. Topped with Labyrinth's "Ramly sauce" and mustard cress, this bite-sized snack delivered nostalgia and innovation in one.

Oyster Bao 4.8/5

My favourite snack, the Oyster Bao, was Labyrinth's take on the disappearing Fuzhou Haobing street snack. This bao used a David Herve oyster no.4 and a delicate espuma batter to create a beignet-like texture. The flavours were layered and precise, with a light, airy crust surrounding the oyster — a beautifully elevated version of a rare street food.

Hainanese Curry Puff 4/5

Dubbed the Old Han Kee, Labyrinth's Hainanese Curry Puff pays homage to Singapore's iconic curry puff brand, Old Chang Kee. It is filled with oyster mushrooms, sweet corn, sweet potato, and braised pork belly and served with garlic aioli for extra richness. It is a satisfying and comforting bite.

Satay Club 4.2/5

Named after Singapore's historic Satay Club, this course featured two skewers — a Pork Satay and a Chicken Tsukune. The pork skewers, with loin and jowl, offered contrasting textures, reminiscent of Hainanese satay, while the tsukune encased a quail egg and was inspired by Japanese tsukune and Scotch egg. Paired with Filipino kare-kare peanut sauce, the skewers captured the essence of Southeast Asia's diverse satay styles.

RotiBoy 4.2/5

Labyrinth's RotiBoy transported me back to childhood with its coffee-flavoured craquelin atop a soft brioche filled with Bordier seaweed butter. The nostalgic flavours of Singapore's popular coffee bun were beautifully recreated, with subtle sweetness and a light coffee aroma.

Wartime Rojak 4.5/5

Inspired by an old recipe from the 1942-1950 cookbook "Wartime Kitchen," the Wartime Rojak reimagines a British-influenced Asian salad. Beetroot was prepared as a rosette and sorbet, accompanied by cucumber and lettuce granite, pineapple, and herbs like shiso. It was a refreshing, complex dish with sweet, savoury, and acidic notes, embodying the essence of rojak in a contemporary way. Notably, this dish replaced Labyrinth's iconic Chilli Crab, reflecting the restaurant's commitment to continual evolution.

Fish Maw Char Kway Teow 4.5/5

Labyrinth introduced Char Kway Teow with a twist, using NZ barramundi fish maw as the "noodle." Cooked to a similar shape and texture, the fish maw absorbed flavours of fish sauce, soy sauce, and oyster sauce and was topped with abalone and liver sausage. This elevated take on the hawker staple was comforting, with layers of umami richness.

Laksa Siglap 3.8/5

A different interpretation of laksa, Laksa Siglap used a fish-based broth with lasam noodles made from tapioca and rice flour. Medai fish slices, prepared with a velveting technique, gave a silky texture. While less creamy than traditional laksa, this version was nuanced and delicate.

Chicken Rice 4.5/5

Labyrinth's Chicken Rice was a beautifully composed dish with three components. French poulet breast was layered with a flavourful chicken farce and poached perfectly. The rice, a blend of Jasmine and Koshihikari grains, was cooked in a donabe for a smoky flavour, accompanied by cockscomb and chives. A grilled chicken heart skewer added depth, with each element contributing to the classic flavours in a modern format.

Pisang Goreng 4.5/5

A refined version of Pisang Goreng, this dessert featured a caramelised banana sorbet wrapped in a crispy dough and paired with spiced saffron pastry cream. The sweet and savoury notes balanced perfectly, transforming the beloved street food into a luxurious dessert experience.

Cereal Prawn 4/5

Labyrinth's Cereal Prawn reinterpreted the classic zichar dish in dessert form. This unique creation included oatmeal ice cream infused with 20-year Shaoxing wine, salted egg foam, warabi mochi, and goji berries soaked in Shaoxing wine. Served with a playful "Chef-branded" cereal box filled with puffed rice and caramelised oats, it was a delightful and nostalgic end to the main courses.

Tang Yuan 3.5/5

The Tang Yuan was a warm, comforting dessert that replaced the usual petit fours. The dumpling, filled with Azuki red beans and tangerine peel, was served in a ginger and rice wine syrup, symbolising completion and togetherness. However, the rice wine syrup may not appeal to all, though it provided an interesting twist.

Labyrinth's 10th anniversary menu beautifully celebrates Singapore's culinary heritage, reinvented with finesse. Chef Han's commitment to local flavours, ingredients, and history is evident in each dish, creating a nostalgic and forward-thinking experience. Labyrinth's new menu is a must-try for those seeking a deeply thoughtful, innovative journey through Singaporean flavours.

Note: This is an inviting tasting.


Labyrinth
Esplanade Mall
8 Raffles Avenue
#02-23
Singapore 039802
Tel: +65 62234098
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Nearest MRT: Esplanade (CC Line)

Opening Hours:
Tue-Fri: 12pm - 230pm, 630pm - 1030pm
Sat-Sun: 630pm - 1030pm

Direction:
1) Alight at Esplanade MRT station. Take Exit B or D. Walk to Raffles Avenue. Cross the road. Walk to destination. Journey time about 8 minutes. [Map]

Town Restaurant @ The Fullerton Hotel Singapore - "Heritage Hawker Stories: Reunion Feast" in Collaboration with Six Local Hawkers

In celebration of National Day, Town Restaurant at The Fullerton Hotel Singapore presents the "Heritage Hawker Stories: Reunion Feast", a collaboration with six esteemed local hawkers: Ah Hui Prawn Noodle, Good Chance Popiah, Ministry of Rojak, To-Ricos Kway Chap, Warong Serembat Satay, and 146 Famous Bukit Merah Ang Ku Kueh. This special event, running throughout August, offers diners a chance to savour iconic Singaporean hawker dishes in a luxurious setting.

Ah Hui Prawn Noodle

I made a beeline for Ah Hui Prawn Noodle, one of my all-time favourite stalls. This nostalgic dish is a rare treat since the owner has retired, coming out of retirement specifically for this event. The umami-packed broth, rich with the flavours of prawn and pork, brought back fond memories and nearly brought tears to my eyes.

To-Rico Kway Chap

Next, I indulged in the famous To-Ricos Kway Chap from Old Airport Road Food Centre. As soon as I entered Town Restaurant, the herbal aroma from the boiling broth filled the air. The generous portion included braised pork trotter, pig skin, braised pork belly, tau pok, braised egg, and big and small intestines. The rich, savoury broth and tender meats were a true delight.

Warong Serembat Satay

Warong Serembat Satay from Upper Boon Keng Food Centre was another highlight. The beef and chicken satay, grilled over a charcoal fire, filled the air with a beautiful aroma. The satay was plump and juicy, perfectly complemented by a deliciously nutty satay sauce.

Good Chance Popiah

Good Chance Popiah, established in 1977, is another heritage guest hawker at the buffet. The popiah was freshly wrapped on the spot, packed with turnips, prawns, sliced omelette, lettuce, beansprouts, sweet sauce, chilli, garlic, peanuts, and coriander. Each bite was a burst of flavours and textures.

Ministry of Rojak

Ministry of Rojak, by the popular Adhus Salam Rojak from Ayer Rajah Food Centre, was also featured. The wide variety of deep-fried ingredients were placed in a big basket, allowing diners to pick their favourites — the assortment of flavours and textures made for a satisfying and delicious experience.

146 Famous Bukit Merah Ang Ku Kueh

Lastly, I tried 146 Famous Bukit Merah Ang Ku Kueh for the first time. Available in five flavours — Peanut, Bean, Corn, Coconut, and Durian — I found the skin a bit thick and the filling too sparse, resulting in a less-than-ideal bite.

Laksa

Rojak

Durian Chendol

In addition to these featured hawkers, the buffet also included local favourites such as Laksa, Rojak, and Durian Chendol. Stepping into Town Restaurant in August felt like entering a hawker centre, where you can indulge in a variety of iconic Singaporean dishes in one sitting.

Beyond the hawker cuisine, diners can also look forward to an eclectic spread of Chinese and Indian cuisine, as well as the ever-popular Sushi and Sashimi station and the Seafood on Ice station.

Sashimi

Seafood on Ice

Heritage Hawker Stories: Reunion Feast
1 to 31 August 2024
Tuesday to Saturday, 6.30 p.m. to 10.00 p.m.
S$88* per adult, S$44* per child (six to 11 years old) from Tuesday to Thursday
S$98* per adult, S$49* per child (six to 11 years old) from Friday and Saturday To-Ricos Kway Chap will be available from Wednesday to Saturday exclusively.

For dining reservations, visit www.fullertonhotels.com/dining or email dining-rsvp@fullertonhotels.com.
*Prices are subject to service charge and prevailing government taxes.

Note: This is an invited tasting.


Town Restaurant
The Fullerton Hotel Singapore
1 Fullerton Square
Singapore 049178
Tel: +65 68778188
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Nearest MRT: Raffles Place (EW Line, NS Line)

Opening Hours:
Daily: 630pm - 1030pm

Direction:
1) Alight at Raffles Place MRT Station. Take Exit H. Turn right and walk towards the river. At the river, turn right again and walk to destination. Journey time about 5 minutes. [Map]

Choon Hoy Parlor (春花) @ Beach Road - A Singapore Soul Food Haven

With the relocating of The Masses, the space has been transformed into a new concept by Chef Dylan Ong — Choon Hoy Parlor (春花). This cosy spot offers Singapore soul food, featuring a multicultural smorgasbord of heritage and heirloom recipes and hawker dishes close to the heart of Singaporeans.

Mini Fried Pomfret 3/5

We began our dinner with the Mini Fried Pomfret ($8.90/5pc, $15.90/10pc), deep-fried to a delightful crisp. Paired with the accompanying Plum Tao Cheong Dip, it was a pleasant start, though it didn't quite stand out among the other offerings.

CHP Signature Our Rojak, Our Own Way 4.2/5

The CHP Signature Our Rojak, Our Own Way ($8.90) is a refreshing, modern take on the traditional local rojak. It comprises seasonal fresh vegetables like starfruits, Japanese cucumbers, jicama, and rose apple, topped with house-made Rojak ice cream and garnished with You Tiao, century eggs, and peanuts. This innovative twist on a classic dish was a delightful explosion of flavours and textures.

CHP Signature Salad: Ulam 3/5

Next, we tried the traditional Malaysian dish, the CHP Signature Salad: Ulam ($15.90). Served cold on crushed ice, it featured fresh seasonal vegetables like paku fern, white corn, rose apple, jicama, lady's finger, Japanese cucumber, papaya, and seldom leaves. It was accompanied by Sambal Belacan and Ginger Flower Emulsion dips. While refreshing, the raw vegetables might not appeal to everyone.

Coin Prata 5/5

The Coin Prata ($8.90) served like a taco paired with lamb masala and mint yoghurt, was a highlight. The lamb masala, which Chef Dylan learned from an Indian chef, was robust and flavourful. Coupled with the crispy prata, this dish was an explosion of flavours and textures—a must-try!

Pork Tongue 3.8/5

Having eaten beef tongue before, I was intrigued by the Pork Tongue. It was more tender than beef tongue and served in a Thai-style spicy sauce paired with a crispy cracker. If I hadn't known, I would have thought it was beef brisket due to its melt-in-the-mouth texture.

CHP Signature White Pepper Pig Stomach Collagen Soup 4/5

Served in a claypot, the CHP Signature White Pepper Pig Stomach Collagen Soup ($25.90) was hearty and comforting. The peppery soup, comprising whole garlic cloves, winter melon, goji berries, pig stomach, taukee, and chives, was a warm, satisfying delight.

CHP Signature 16Hrs Bone-in Coffee Angus Short Rib 4.5/5

Inspired by the local zichar dish coffee Pork Ribs — the CHP Signature 16Hrs Bone-in Coffee Angus Short Rib ($69/700-800g) was an elevated interpretation. The fork-tender beef short rib, grilled over binchotan and glazed with coffee umami sauce, was further garnished with fried garlic chips for an aromatic finish. This dish was a standout.

Teochew Braised Duck 4.8/5

One of my favourite dishes was the Teochew Braised Duck ($69). Served with a set of condiments, including Tau Kwa Pau, sambal chilli, chopped boiled eggs, cucumbers, and yam mixed with fried hae bee hiam and fish cake, the braised whole duck leg was well-flavoured by the braising sauce for 1.5 hours and tender and succulent. The accompanying Tau Kwa Pau, a disappearing hawker dish, offered an additional way to enjoy this delightful dish.

Ayam Goreng Berempah 3.8/5

A good change from the usual Har Cheong Kai was the Ayam Goreng Berempah ($15.90/6pc). Instead of the usual whole chicken leg, it featured chicken winglets and drumsticks for a finger-licking good experience. Topped with serunding, it offered great textures and aroma.

CHP Signature Hainanese Kampong Chicken 3.5/5

A Lil Lard, A Lil Soy, A Lil Love Rice (Triple L)

The CHP Signature Hainanese Kampong Chicken ($15.90/Half, $28.90/Full) uses poached kampong chicken steamed with spring onion, ginger, and garlic. Served with minced vegetables lightly cooked in oil, soy sauce, sliced cucumbers, spring onion, and chopped ginger condiment, this iconic Singapore dish is best enjoyed with a bowl of Triple L Pork Lard Rice ($3).

CHP X Jelebu Signature Dry Laksa V2.0 3/5

The CHP X Jelebu Signature Dry Laksa V2.0 ($18.90) was wetter than expected. While the rempah was robust and fragrant, the strong cockles' flavour was not to my liking. However, I heard the restaurant has tweaked the recipe for an even more delicious version.

Yuzu Citron Cheng Tng 4.5/5

The Yuzu Citron Cheng Tng ($10.90) was an elevated take on the traditional Chinese clear soup dessert. It was simmered until flavorful with rock sugar, dried longan, dates, white fungus, sea coconut, karaya gum, and Korean yuzu citron, which gave the clear soup a deliciously new dimension.

CHP Signature Durian Chendol 4/5

Another local dessert inspiration was the CHP Signature Durian Chendol ($13.90). A gula melaka sponge cake base topped with pandan jellies, kidney beans, coconut ice cream, D24 durian puree, and corn espuma sauce, this luxe version of the traditional chendol dessert was a delightful end to our meal.

Choon Hoy Parlor (春花) is a gem for those seeking to relive the comfort and nostalgia of Singapore soul food. Chef Dylan Ong's innovative take on traditional dishes offers a fresh, contemporary twist that still holds true to its roots. Whether you're in the mood for a light snack or a hearty meal, Choon Hoy Parlor promises a dining experience that's both satisfying and memorable.

Note: This is an invited tasting.


Choon Hoy Parlor (春花)
85 Beach Road
#01-02
Singapore 189694
Tel: +65 6266 0061
Instagram
Website
Nearest MRT: Bugis (DT, EW Line)

Opening Hours:
Mon-Sat: 12pm - 3pm, 530pm - 930pm
Sun: 12pm - 3pm, 530pm - 9pm

Direction:
1) Alight at Bugis MRT station. Take Exit C. Walk to North Bridge Road. Cross the road to Tan Quee Lan Street. Walk down Tan Quee Lan Street to Beach Road. Turn right onto Beach Road. Walk to destination. Journey time about 8 minutes. [Map]