An evening at CE SOIR feels like stepping into a quiet, deeply personal memory - one shaped by heritage, craftsmanship, and restraint. This modern Asian fine-dining experience is refined by Japanese sensibilities yet anchored in nostalgia, drawing on Chef Seth Lai's kampong childhood in Teluk Intan, Malaysia. Memories of gathering eggs, seaside markets, and home-cooked meals unfold gently across the menu, each course reading like a page from his culinary journal.
Tucked away atop a colonial black-and-white bungalow along Portsdown Road, CE SOIR is an intimate destination helmed by Chef Seth Lai, winner of the MICHELIN Guide Young Chef Award 2024. The restaurant offers an 8-course dinner menu priced at $228++ per person, designed to surprise without overwhelming.
Sparking Tea
The Sparkling Tea was an elegant way to begin, remarkably champagne-like, with delicate tea aromatics and a gentle effervescence. Light, fragrant, and not overly sweet, it set a refined tone for the meal ahead.
1st Snack - Obsiblue Prawn, Kinkan, Shiso 3.8/5
2nd Snack – Ankimo, Mandarin, Hazelnut 4.2/5
3rd Snack – Wagyu, Green Mango, Kaffir Lime 4/5
The meal began with three beautifully plated snacks, served together on a platter, each bite offering a distinct contrast in texture and flavour. While all three were enjoyable, the standout for me was the Ankimo. Beneath a delicate orange jelly hid rich monkfish liver, balanced cleverly by mandarin and hazelnut.
The Wagyu snack was another pleasant surprise, where the acidity of green mango and the fragrance of kaffir lime cut through the richness, leaving us wanting more.
Kanpachi 4/5
An elevated sashimi course featuring Kanpachi (Greater Amberjack) paired with crunchy rose apple, finger lime zest, and sesame. A subtle touch of prawn paste was introduced to evoke the familiar flavours of local rojak. It was a thoughtful reinterpretation that is familiar yet refined.
Wintermelon 5/5
This dish earned a rare full score from me. The Wintermelon soup arrived with an intense, mesmerising smoky aroma. Chef Seth shared that the pork belly used in the soup was smoked 8–9 times, 30 minutes each session, before being simmered together with peanuts, octopus and Zuwaigani (snow crab) for 12 hours. The result was deeply layered and comforting, with flavours that lingered long after each sip. Truly unforgettable.
Sawara 4/5
The Sawara (Spanish mackerel) sparked mixed feelings; the texture was unexpectedly delicate, almost poached, despite being grilled. It was a texture I had never experienced with mackerel before.
Interestingly, the highlight of the dish turned out to be the Hakusai (napa cabbage) on the side, grilled and layered with mushroom XO sauce, mussels and topped with fried beancurd skin. A tamarind sauce added a gentle tartness that tied everything together beautifully.
Signature Seaweed Bread 4.5/5
The homemade Signature Seaweed Bread is so good, we asked for seconds. Made with three types of seaweed, glazed with star anise, and finished with a sprinkle of sea salt. The bread was pillowy-soft inside, with a light crust on the outside. Best enjoyed immediately while hot.
Lobster 4.5/5
Served alongside the bread — and rightly so — this Lobster dish encouraged us to mop up every last bit of sauce. The flavour combination was unexpected yet harmonious: Tang Oh, chickpea miso, roasted kelp and yellow wine. It's one of those sauces that's difficult to describe, but impossible to forget.
Magret Duck 3.8/5
By this point, we were already about 70% full. The Magret Duck was the only dish that didn't quite resonate with me. While the duck was tender and well marinated, it leaned slightly gamey for my taste, and the Angelica root sauce lacked a stronger punch.
An optional $38 top-up for Kagoshima A4 Wagyu is available for diners who prefer an alternative.
South African Abalone 5/5
The last savoury course was a showstopper. South African Abalone, slow-cooked for 5 hours before grilling, achieved a beautifully tender texture. It was served alongside a comforting "fried porridge" made with 5 Grains, Sakura Ebi and Kyoto-style cucumbers for crunch. It's more like claypot rice for us, but either way, this is really delicious!
The table-side service of the rice had us salivating even before it was plated. Chef Seth joked that he salivates every time he prepares it too, and we understand why. The charred aroma and flavour were outstanding.
Nashi Pear 3.8/5
Dessert began with a modern interpretation of Cheng Tng. Osmanthus biscuit sat atop a parfait, paired with Nashi Pear, red date ice cream, candied cashew and a calamansi-brandy sauce. The matcha "leaf" added a visual flourish, while the sauce provided a gentle tang.
Black Sesame & Maltose 4/5
Inspired by the Malaysian snack Heong Peah, this Black Sesame & Maltose dessert captured its signature contrast with flaky, crunchy pastry with a sticky maltose centre. The addition of black sesame added depth without overpowering.
Kaya-Misu 4.8/5
We were glad to save this for last. Kaya-Misu featured homemade pale-green kaya and mascarpone, filled into a choux pastry and topped with a cocoa tuile. Chef Seth uses Marsala wine for the tiramisu tradition, which surprisingly paired beautifully with kaya. A comforting yet elegant finale.
CE SOIR is a reservations-only restaurant offering lunch and dinner, with a seasonal menu that changes every 3 to 4 months. The dining room is intimate, and the team is lean, but service is warm, genuine, and thoughtfully paced.
What I truly enjoyed was how fun the experience felt. Each dish became a little guessing game, where you tried to identify the inspiration, memory, or familiar flavour behind it before the story unfolded. The experience is enhanced by a charming jotter booklet, complete with illustrations and written narratives for every course, allowing diners to journey through Chef Seth's memories alongside the meal.
It's rare to find fine dining that feels this engaging and personal without being overwhelming. CE SOIR manages to be refined yet relaxed, thoughtful yet playful. Truly a place where storytelling, flavour and emotion come together beautifully.
Photos and words by Jaslyn. An avid cook who lives to eat and travel for food. Note: This is an invited tasting.
Ce Soir Restaurant
5B Portsdown Road
Unit 01-03
Singapore 139311
Tel: +65 9177 9993
Website
Nearest MRT: One-North (CC Line)
Opening Hours:
Wed: 630pm - 11pm
Thu-Sun: 12pm - 3pm, 630pm - 11pm
(Closed on Mon-Tue)
Direction:
1) Alight at One-North MRT station. Take Exit B. Walk to the bus stop opposite One-North MRT station (Stop ID 18151). Take bus number 191. Alight 3 stops later. Walk to the destination. Journey time is about 8 minutes. [Map]
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