Friday, December 29, 2023

Alma by Juan Amador @ Goodwood Park Hotel - Homecoming of Executive Chef Yew Eng Teng, Leading Alma to a New Chapter

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Excitement filled the air as I stepped into Alma by Juan Amador, eager to explore the new chapter under the helm of Executive Chef Yew Eng Teng. With a remarkable career quietly etched in Michelin-starred kitchens and the prestigious role of the winning Team Captain for Singapore at the Culinary Olympics 2014 in Germany, Chef Yew brings a wealth of experience and accolades. His journey extends beyond national borders, with participation in various international competitions further highlighting his culinary prowess.

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Cauliflower Tartlet 5/5

The 8-Course Dinner ($248++ per pax) unfolded with two snack bites, starting with the Cauliflower Tartlet. Delicately crafted with raw cauliflower, creme, and marinated raw seafood in a pie tee cup, it danced with flavours of white shoyu, fried white kombu, salted finger, and arctic char skin crisp.

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Takoyaki Potato Gratin 4.2/5

Following suit is the Takoyaki Potato Gratin, inspired by the dish created at the esteemed Bocuse d'Or competition. This delightful morsel is a symphony of flavours, blending potatoes, cream, and Parmesan, encasing a core of pink garlic-infused cream. Adorned with a dab of black garlic, it's a testament to Chef Yew Eng Teng's artistry and ingenuity.

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Blue Fin Tuna 4.8/5

An exquisite presentation graces the palate with the Blue Fin Tuna at Alma by Juan Amador. A delicate "fish bone" potato crisp sits atop a grilled squid ink brioche, housing luscious tuna tartare adorned with smoked mayonnaise and truffle parfait. The culinary ballet unfolds as flavours and textures dance in harmony, a testament to Chef Yew Eng Teng's culinary finesse.

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Artic Char 5/5

The meticulously crafted Artic Char undergoes a flavourful journey. Brined and seasoned, it transforms into a roulade through sous vide cooking, encased in a layer of pickled radishes and sushi vinegar jelly. Sliced into perfection, it is crowned with N25 hybrid caviar and passionfruit gel, resting on a vibrant watermelon and salsa bed. The result is a symphony of bursts, amplifying this cold-water fish's mildly sweet and pristine essence. Chef Yew Eng Teng orchestrates a palate-pleasing masterpiece.

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Egg 4.5/5

The Egg course takes center stage. A sous-vide 65-degree egg, bathed in hollandaise, accompanies sautéed cep with chicken velouté in a cep broth. This seemingly simple ingredient, the egg, transforms in taste and the overall experience. Chef Yew Eng Teng's mastery elevates this humble component into a symphony of flavours, creating a memorable moment for the diner.

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Mantou Bread 4.8/5

Indulging in the Mantou Bread at Alma by Juan Amador is a delightful experience. Crafted as a homemade multi-seed bun, it undergoes a unique preparation — steamed and fried to perfection upon order. Each bite is topped with a blend of chia seeds, sesame, and flaxseed, revealing a soft and fluffy texture. The true magic happens when paired with the smoked Bordier butter and prawn head espuma, creating a symphony of flavours that lingers on the palate, making it a must-try sensation.

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Blue Lobster Tail 4.2/5

The Blue Lobster Tail is truly a feast for the senses. Glazed with an assam balsamic glaze and seasoned with a harmonious blend of curry and Japanese rice seasoning, the lobster tail is char-grilled over an open flame, ensuring it retains a delectable moist texture. The inherent sweetness of the lobster is elevated by Chef Juan Amador's signature purple curry sauce, creating a symphony of flavours that dance on the palate. Adding ladyfinger in ponzu and pickled mustard seed adds a delightful touch, completing this delicious masterpiece.

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Glacier 51 toothfish (Turbot) 4.5/5

The Glacier 51 Toothfish was replaced by Turbot, pan-seared and served with crustacean cream, chive, carrot and prawn oil, caviar vinaigrette, seaweed tempura crisp, and carrot puree. The dish's finesse is further accentuated by the textural contrast of seaweed tempura crisp and the smoothness of carrot puree. This dish is a culinary dance of lightness and robust flavours, which is a testament to Chef Yew Eng Teng's ingenious marriage of diverse elements.

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Miyazaki Wagyu A5 4.2/5

The exquisite Miyazaki Wagyu A5 is captivating with its charred leek ash coating, perfectly complemented by a luscious cocoa jus. The simplicity of the execution allows the exceptional quality of the ingredient to shine, offering a melt-in-the-mouth texture and pure, unadulterated flavour.

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Red Ruby 4/5

In a creative interpretation of the Red Ruby, a beloved Thai dessert, it presents a delightful composition featuring water chestnut with rose gelatine. This exquisite treat is immersed in lemongrass coconut soup, accompanied by coconut espuma with a hint of mint oil, and crowned with a delicate milk crisp. The dessert achieves a perfect balance of textures, offering a contemporary twist while preserving the authentic taste of the traditional Thai sweet.

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Poached Peach 5/5

Expressing adoration for the dessert, the Poached Peach takes centre stage, accompanied by soursop sorbet on a bed of salted buttermilk sago. The ensemble is elevated with Sakura espuma and purple shiso salt and crowned with Sakura and purple shiso meringue. Despite the challenge of capturing its essence in words, the combination stands out as one of the most exceptional desserts experienced.

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Petit Fours

The Petit Four concludes the dinner experience, featuring the Burnt Calamansi Tart, Pandan Financier, and Mochi Bread. Often regarded as mere baked confections, these petite fours at Alma showcase a distinct passion and commitment. They go beyond the ordinary, infusing a soulful touch into each bite, ensuring that the dining experience concludes on a high note, leaving a lasting impression.

Note: This is an invited tasting


Alma by Juan Amador
Goodwood Park Hotel Singapore
22 Scotts Road
Singapore 228221
Tel: +65 6735 9937
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Nearest MRT: Orchard (NS, TE Line)

Opening Hours:
Tue-Sat: 12pm - 230pm, 6pm - 1030pm
(Closed on Sun & Mon)

Direction:
1) Alight at Orchard MRT station. Take Exit 1. Walk down Scotts Road to destination. Journey time about 10 minutes.[Map]

Wednesday, December 27, 2023

INDOCAFÉ Peranakan Dining @ Scotts Road - Reopens with New Peranakan Dishes

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Nestled within "The White House" along Scotts Road, the reopening of INDOCAFÉ Peranakan Dining unveils the iconic colonial-style bungalow that has been transformed into an enclave that embraces both modernity and the vibrant heritage of Peranakan culture. Its interiors blend Peranakan influences with a touch of modern sophistication, creating a cosy and inviting ambience. The new menu, curated by Penang-born Chef Heng Eng Ho, features old favourites alongside new dishes showcasing his understanding of Peranakan flavours developed over more than 20 years of culinary experience.

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Belinjo Crackers

We were delighted with a mouthwatering complimentary welcome snack - crunchy Belinjo Crackers with Sambal Belacan, Gula Melaka & Acar. The sambal belacan whetted my appetite, with its piquancy laced with a hint of hit, making it the perfect dip throughout the meal. I love the crunch from the acar as well.

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We started with the Trio Platter from its Signature Tasting Menu - Kueh Pie Tee, Ngoh Hiang, Otah Otah. Individual items are available in the ala carte menu. Within the Kueh Pie Tee ($19) is braised shredded turnip, topped with dried prawns and crabmeat. The shredded turnip retained a good crunch and aptly seasoned, and a touch of the vibrant chilli sauce lifted its flavours. Both the and were equally delightful. The Ngoh Hiang ($19) showcased an excellent proportion of pork and chopped water chestnuts, resulting in a testy, juicy meat roll. Nonya Otah Otah ($16) was tasty with chunky mackerel fish, and Nyonya herbs and spices were also quite balanced.

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Itek Tim (tasting portion) 4/5

We also had a soup starter - Itek Tim ($14), a salted vegetable duck leg soup. It boasted a profound tartness from pickled mustard greens, balanced with fruity sweetness imparted by tomatoes. The duck meat was cooked to tender. The soup was also elevated with shaved nutmeg for a subtle lift and a dash of brandy for a depth of flavour.

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INDOCAFÉ Wagyu Beef Rendang (tasting portion) 4.5/5

Moving on to the Mains. We savoured the INDOCAFÉ Wagyu Beef Rendang ($38), elevated with premium Wagyu beef cheek. The beef cheek is cooked with spices, shrimp paste, chilli and coconut milk for over three hours, followed by additions of Nyonya rempah and a medley of fresh aromatics. The beef was tender and moist, and the flavours were well-rounded without overly intense.

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Babi Pongteh (tasting portion) 4.5/5

INDOCAFÉ also amped its Babi Pongteh ($28) with Spanish Iberico pork. The pork is marinated to the bone with fermented soybean paste and then cooked with potatoes, aromatic spices, onion and garlic. Having Spanish Iberico pork prepared in this manner for the first time, I was pleasantly surprised by how well it was being executed. Despite the absence of the usual chunky layers of fats and skin found in a regular pork belly, the flavours and texture were not compromised.

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Ikan Sambal Bunga Kantan (tasting portion) 3.8/5

We also had a seafood fish - Ikan Sambal Bunga Kantan ($39). The Patagonian toothfish is deep-fried and dressed with ginger flower and Thai sweet and sour chilli sauce. It was tasty with a firm and succulent texture, although a thinner crust would have been preferable.

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Dry Laksa 3/5

We tried its Dry Laksa ($26) with Argentina Red Prawns. The laksa lacked the robustness and punch we expected, and the prawns were a bit mushy in texture.

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Sago Gula Melaka 4.5/5

Ending things on a sweet note - Sago Gula Melaka ($14) was indulgent with prime D24 durian pengat. The sticky sago pudding was lightly sweetened with gula melaka and doused with warm coconut milk, bringing the elements together into a harmonious delight.

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Kueh Salat 4/5

The Signature Kueh Salat ($15) was aesthetically presented, featuring a scoop of coconut ice cream adorned with desiccated coconut and crushed peanuts. While the pandan coconut custard was deliciously creamy, the glutinous rice layer could be softer to combine better with the custard. The overall sweetness was on the higher side.

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Kerinci

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To complete the dining experience, INDOCAFÉ Peranakan Dining has also incorporated artisanal coffee offerings and exclusive beverages. During our meal, we had a refreshing mimosa to complement the richness of the food. When it came to desserts, between Gesha Passiflora ($19) from Colombia and Kerinci ($11) from Indonesia, I opted for the latter, which offers tasting notes of tropical fruits, dried fruits, berries, stone fruits with a wine-like sweet finish.

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Photos and words by Si An. A girl who is allured by travelling, loves the feel of freedom, smell of the rain and the aroma of fine coffee and food. Note: This is an invited tasting.


INDOCAFÉ Peranakan Dining
35 Scotts Road
Singapore 228227
Tel: +65 9430 7307
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Nearest MRT: Newton (DT, NS Line)

Opening Hours:
Tue-Sun: 12pm - 3pm, 6pm -1030pm
(Closed on Mon)

Direction:
1) Alight at Newton MRT station. Take Exit A. On Scotts Road, turn right and walk down Scotts Road towards Orchard Road direction. Journey time about 6 minutes. [Map]