The
Masses by Chef Dylan Ong has relocated from Beach Road to the prestigious Arcade at the Capitol Kempinski Hotel. This new chapter introduces a refreshed menu that marries contemporary French cuisine with bold Asian elements, delivering a unique Franco-Asian dining experience. The menu offers a cuisine with a French core harmoniously layered with Asian elements.
Squid Ink Kueh Pie Tee 4.2/5
We began our culinary journey with the
Squid Ink Kueh Pie Tee ($12.90/4pc). Unlike the traditional version stuffed with cooked jicama, Chef Dylan elevates this snack by infusing the shell with squid ink and topping it with fresh crab meat. The sweetness of the crab pairs beautifully with the savoury crunch of the shell, making for a delightful start.
Smoked Pu Er Caviar & Beignet 4/5
Next, we tried the
Smoked Pu Er Caviar & Beignet ($9.90/2pc). These fluffy beignets are filled with yuzu creme and topped with Avruga caviar, which has been smoked in-house with pu er tea. The tea's subtle aroma and the caviar burst create an elegant and unique flavour profile.
Steak Tartare 4/5
The
Steak Tartare ($26.90) here is a symphony of flavours and textures. Served with sour cream, wasabi, mustard, charred onion, and pickled chye sim and topped with fried garlic chips, shallot chips, and caviar, it offers a rich and complex taste. Spreading the tartare on the accompanying shiso Kueh Loyang adds a crispy contrast that enhances each bite.
Salad Nicoise 3.5/5
A refreshing and healthy option is the
Salad Nicoise ($23.90). This vibrant dish features gem lettuce, seasonal vegetables, tomatoes, olives, and aburi swordfish, all dressed in a tuna emulsion and topped with a soft-boiled egg. It perfectly balances flavours and textures, making it a standout salad.
Moules Marinieres 4/5
The
Moules Marinieres ($16.90) is an innovative twist on the classic chawanmushi. Beneath the uni sabayon sprinkled with Espelette pepper lies a soft and creamy steamed egg custard with blue mussels. It's a delightful mix of textures and flavours paired with a crispy rice paper cracker.
Wagyu Beef Tongue 4/5
The
Wagyu Beef Tongue served atop a crispy scallion pancake, is layered with red wine onion marmalade, pickled mustard seeds, pickled onions, shiso leaf, Dijon mustard, and lemon vinaigrette. The sweetness of the marmalade and the sharpness of the pickled elements create a harmonious balance, making this dish a highlight.
Stuffed Zucchini Flower 3/5
The
Stuffed Zucchini Flower ($29.90), air-flown from Holland, is filled with mozzarella cheese and drizzled with lavender honey. Though the flower-to-cheese ratio felt a bit off, the lemon and caper aioli lifted the dish, adding a zesty finish.
Lemon Sole Meuniere 4/5
The
Lemon Sole Meuniere ($39.90) makes a grand entry with a whole sole fish served in an "Asian Grenobloise" sauce topped with coldwater shrimp and sliced almonds. The unique twist of salted vegetables blended into the sauce offers a nod to the traditional Teochew steamed fish.
Dry Aged Spiced Roasted Chicken 4.5/5
A favourite is the
Dry Aged Spiced Roasted Chicken ($21.90/half). The tender chicken served with parsnip puree, chilli jam, and charred kailan in a soy sauce chicken jus, stands out for its flavorful skin and well-balanced accompaniments.
Duck Confit 4.8/5
The
Duck Confit ($21.90), a signature dish from Chef Dylan's early career, is served atop rice noodles with local mushrooms and mirabelle plum vinaigrette, finished with house-cured egg yolk. This dish reinterprets the local moonlight Hor Fun, adding a nostalgic yet innovative touch.
Steak Au Poivre 5/5
The
Steak Au Poivre ($29.90) features 2GR Australian Wagyu seared and served in a browned butter sauce accented by lemon and capers. The tender shoulder cut is packed with robust flavour, and the black pepper sauce is truly the soul of this dish.
Corn & Cereal 4.5/5
For dessert, we had the
Corn & Cereal ($13.90), a warm toffee and corn pudding served in whiskey caramel sauce, topped with cereal and housemade cereal ice cream. It's not overly sweet and offers a delightful play of textures and flavours.
Truffle & Tulakalum, TNT 4.2/5
The
Truffle & Tulakalum, TNT ($15.90) is a savory-sweet chocolate-based dessert. Housemade black truffle ice cream is paired with Valrhona Tulakalum chocolate ganache and piped chocolate mousse and finished with shaved black truffle, sea salt, and lemon verbena oil. This dessert is a must-try for chocolate lovers.
The Masses at The Capitol Kempinski Hotel offers a sophisticated yet approachable dining experience with its Franco-Asian cuisine. Chef Dylan Ong's innovative take on classic dishes and his use of premium ingredients make this a must-visit destination. The varied menu ensures there is something for everyone, and I'm excited to see how the menu evolves over time.
Note: This is an invited tasting.
The Masses
Arcade @ The Capitol Kempinski
13 Stamford Road
#01-84
Singapore 178905
Tel: +65 6518 4988
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Nearest MRT: City Hall (EW, NS Line)
Opening Hours:
Mon-Sat: 1130am - 1030pm
Direction:
1) Alight at City Hall MRT station. Take Exit B. Cross the road. Walk to destination. Journey time about 5 minutes. [
Map]